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While I appreciate the reason the moderator edited my post to remove some completely inappropriate vile language I think it greatly removed the point of my post.... I was surprised someone who's been here for as long as wvmarv would post something like that, especially to another long term...
Well you gotta admit 33 IMP had a point... Your post was vague, we don't know if you have a crusty block with damage from kicking a rod out or if you have a complete running long block....
I had Hagerty for years, then the family sold to a major company... And soon after I heard of a few claims getting handled poorly... One through an online forum, and one through a high end body shop that I've known the owner of personally for twenty plus years.. Then I got my renewal & it was...
Screw the welder... Get your butt healthy... Wait!! Don't screw the welder, save that for someone you love... As far as getting your butt healthy... Yeah but let's focus on getting all of you healthy...
One question... Why would you come here to ask about "Normal"??? I don't believe there are any "Normal" people on this website... If there are they don't post.... :lol:
The thing about Andy's cover is, if you use a Hex-a-just timing set you can advance/retard the cam without removing the cover...
Along with the adjustable timing pointer, the stiff covers ability to control cam thrust and the ability to accurately measure & adjust the thrust...
It's a damn nice...
The Stanke Motorsports shafts are stock diameter, thick walled so they won't distort or deflect... They have lubrication grooves... Unless Comp did something weird which I doubt they should be a great choice..
Been looking at those shafts, if I didn't already have shafts with banana grooves I'd probably buy those... The ones I have had threaded plugs in the ends, which interfere with the valve cover slightly... The Stanke Motorsports shafts have plugs sealed with O rings... Very good design..