Recent content by justavillain

I just ran it for about 20 min idle and a little off idle in the barn and no fluid, foam or anything like that. I turned my electric fans on and loaded the engine down and you could see the fluid turning in the pump neck but nothing weird. Maybe sitting with extra fluid for a month helped...

Initially I was but for the last few months I have not. When I open the lid I can see the pump clearly there is no fluid in it. And it starts to squeal. It’s slightly over full right now. I don’t see any drips below the car near the pump and it’s been sitting for about 3 months now without...

A little update, the replacement federal pump has a 7-1/4 outside diameter pulley on it. The pump on the car has a 7” pulley. The one that was on it not long ago was 5” And the smaller pulley should spin the pump faster not slower like the larger ones. I went and topped it off but it was...

I want to say the new pulley is slightly larger. I will check when I get home if I have the old pulley also. I believe the pump is a press on not screw on. What I am thinking is the replacement pulley is for an AC car and mine was never an AC Car.

you'd think with 15 years in firefighting and 10 of them as an equipment operator I would understand cavitating pumps.... I will try and let it gravity bleed, and then single side bleed for a few days and see what's up. Thanks

I have had a lot of work done on my Super Bee's 440 and one way or another the Federal power steering pump pulley was damaged (solid disk no spokes). It was replaced by a slightly wider one that I was told is actually OEM for the car. the replacement one is the 3 spoke design slightly wider...

This weekend I’ll be in the shop looking hard at this. I’ll pick up some powder and more brake clean and hammer down on the jack stands floor a bit and see what’s up. I have to work in the neutral safety switch issue I have going on so I’ll let it idle for a bit in gear then watch it.

Head light update so I pulled the connector on the right showed 7v at idle low beam, 12v high beam so I plugged it back in and boom right side worked just fine. Left side still dim, checked for voltage and had 5.xx volts at idle and like 5.8 off idle. Checked the ground it was ok, added an...

beer time in the shop is how I rebuilt my 440, and none of my buddies know anything about motors! it was slow but got done. sometimes it is easier to have a helping hand and throw the hood on the roof with a moving blanket under it.

that is a good idea on the baby powder. I will attempt to clean it and puff it. the leak is always seen at the leading edge of the bell housing and rolls back about 2" and then drips. I never thought of relocating the vent. I will look into that also.

before you pull the hood mark the edges of the hinge brackets and boom takes all the guess work out of realigning it.

All 4 lights are on no matter high or low. I have a new foot switch on order it was a whole 11$ I’ll tear into the wiring tomorrow after work. One thing I can do is power the circuits independently with my power probe and test each light and or part on its own. Plus pull the normal data with...

for the question on the ballast resistor you can bypass it with a heavy g wire for the full 12v. I don't know if it will effect the rest of your ignition with the mopar box but I had to do that with my MSD system. I used 2 10g wires braided together for good measure. been good for 5 years now.

I haven't ran the car at night much, should only 2 of the bulbs be lit in low beam? right now all 4 are on no matter what and when I click the high beam floor switch they all stay lit too but the one "bright" one changes the output like a highbeam would.

I have an inspection cam I might be able to sneak it up by the main seal. I'll hit it with some brake clean and run it a little in the barn to see if I can find a fresh drip.