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Shorten Dana 60

5.7 hemi

5.7 hemi

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I thought that I would post how I shortened a Dana 60 for my 69’ Dart GT. Enjoy the pics....,,

58C6BA0B-ECBF-4374-832B-02FE1C711ED3.jpeg 584A6905-82E4-4531-9D70-21CB5CA059D0.jpeg 615D0C6F-27C3-418B-B360-07B4B935F37C.jpeg 1DEE4191-E75C-47F2-9650-B7D8426B9BCF.jpeg B6CC6161-303F-4003-BFF6-07AE56CE5C15.jpeg 357B53DE-FC38-4360-9A11-0A9DBFA88083.jpeg E12E15F2-D8C0-4320-B332-36744D3875B7.jpeg 5D0E80B6-0581-4F70-8A7B-2FC7AE1DB13C.jpeg 63C3C61F-B649-4F5E-A698-AA460E22AF43.jpeg 43BBD6B5-93DD-4877-89B2-3BAA1DE77EF0.jpeg
 
Truck Dana 60’s are really thick tubes, mine was 3/8. The bar is 1.250 thick and once the pucks are in the housing, torqued to spec, the ends are slid on with the pucks inside them (where the bearing sits) and locking collars are then tightened down, the tubes aren’t going anywhere.

The ends of the tubes are chamfered cause your gonna need 2 welds to completely weld the ends to the tube. Anyway, I tack the ends in 4 spots 90 degrees apart, then do the other side. I heat the cast iron center with a torch while turning it (its on jack stands) I tack in 4 spots then move to the other side. The reason you heat the center is cast iron has a different heat/cool cycle than the steel tubes. Also helps burn out any oil/grease that is in between the tube and cast center.

Now while I’ve been doing all this, I turn the bar to make sure there is no binding. Now I run the first bead around the ends, checking the bar after each weld.

Now I heat the center again, fully welding it in on pass. My buddy is turning the Dana as I weld....that would real hard to do by yourself, lol! Do the other side. Check the bar for binding!

Final pass on the ends, check the bar and then enjoy a beer for job well done. Also listen for and “tinking” noise, and once you can put your hand on it, your safe.
 
I had it made along with the pucks at my local machine shop.
 
Thanks, I have the pucks but need a bar to do mine. I'll look into that route as well.
 
I’ve got a centerless ground bar, absolutely laser straight. If they can’t do that, get one that is straight as can be.
 
It’s .035, great penetration for those 3/8’s thick axle tubes. I used my buddy’s welder, a big SOB, as I didn’t want to tig and my mig is only 140 amp, just good for sheet metal to 1/8.

2A342843-9146-4E49-B309-C5353764479F.jpeg
 
Thanks, that’s what I used to weld on my upper link mounts on my s60 with 75/25 Argon. Came out pretty good. Now I’m working on arc welding, picked up a miller bobcat a while back
 
I have a problem with arc welding due to my depth perception is shot thanks to shrapnel. So that kind of welding is super hard for me, tig, is alright, I usually just do a tack and then move the puddle with the torch. This was done on my stainless exhaust.

6E0CBC6B-C718-4A34-B5F0-85897F02490E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
nice detailed description 5.7 Hemi :thumbsup:

Something I never thought I'd say,
nice rears guys... :carrot:
 
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