Shorten Dana 60

[Suregrip391]

Thanks Zack, what’s the best Dana Rear to find? Late 70’s Ford truck? Are those 2 3/4 or 3 1/8 diameter axle tubes? I’ve read two different posts as far as that goes...thanks again.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Depends, you’ll usually find that they are 3.125 and it really doesn’t matter the year, but a 70’s Ferd truck is what I’ve used.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Your talents NEVER cease to amaze me!

 

[Cranky]

IIRC, the '501' Ford housings are 2 3/4" tubes but that's not really problem.....

 

[Crackedback]

Nice work Zack.

I got a Ground, turned & polished bar from speedy metals. Works good and was reasonable at the time.

 

[Cranky]

Nice work Zack.

I got a Ground, turned & polished bar from speedy metals. Works good and was reasonable at the time.

How much did it cost you? If you don't mind if I ask....

 

[5.7 hemi]

My pucks (for a Dana 60 and 8 3/4) with the bar ran me about 175 total.

 

[Crackedback]

How much did it cost you? If you don't mind if I ask....

$60 delivered 10 years ago. Doubt it's that price now.

 

[RJRENTON]

Truck Dana 60’s are really thick tubes, mine was 3/8. The bar is 1.250 thick and once the pucks are in the housing, torqued to spec, the ends are slid on with the pucks inside them (where the bearing sits) and locking collars are then tightened down, the tubes aren’t going anywhere.

The ends of the tubes are chamfered cause your gonna need 2 welds to completely weld the ends to the tube. Anyway, I tack the ends in 4 spots 90 degrees apart, then do the other side. I heat the cast iron center with a torch while turning it (its on jack stands) I tack in 4 spots then move to the other side. The reason you heat the center is cast iron has a different heat/cool cycle than the steel tubes. Also helps burn out any oil/grease that is in between the tube and cast center.

Now while I’ve been doing all this, I turn the bar to make sure there is no binding. Now I run the first bead around the ends, checking the bar after each weld.

Now I heat the center again, fully welding it in on pass. My buddy is turning the Dana as I weld....that would real hard to do by yourself, lol! Do the other side. Check the bar for binding!

Final pass on the ends, check the bar and then enjoy a beer for job well done. Also listen for and “tinking” noise, and once you can put your hand on it, your safe.

Out of curiosity, did you know what alloy the axle tubes were originally fabricated from? As high strength, thick wall tubing is usually greater than 0.04% carbon content requiring similar carbon content filler metal. Looking at your pixs of the fabrication, "V-ing" joining surfaces...but did you use chill rings to insure full penetration welds with the first pass using TIG and the cover pass with MIG (or even stick electrodes). Sometimes gas backing the joint will produce better full pen welds with less chance of "sugar" or occlusions in the weld. I always thought the housing was a high nickel alloy cast steel not cast iron requiring a high nickel alloy filler metal. Pre-heating, maintaining interpass temperature and post weld heating is also required. There was an old welders adage: "thou shall not weld on cast iron or cold rolled steel" as there will be little on no penetration of the base metal. I'm contemplating a similar set up for a project car....and want to get it right. Advice?
BOB RENTON

 

[Cranky]

My pucks (for a Dana 60 and 8 3/4) with the bar ran me about 175 total.

I made my bar and pucks before retiring from the plant......

Out of curiosity, did you know what alloy the axle tubes were originally fabricated from? As high strength, thick wall tubing is usually greater than 0.04% carbon content requiring similar carbon content filler metal. Looking at your pixs of the fabrication, "V-ing" joining surfaces...but did you use chill rings to insure full penetration welds with the first pass using TIG and the cover pass with MIG (or even stick electrodes). Sometimes gas backing the joint will produce better full pen welds with less chance of "sugar" or occlusions in the weld. I always thought the housing was a high nickel alloy cast steel not cast iron requiring a high nickel alloy filler metal. Pre-heating, maintaining interpass temperature and post weld heating is also required. There was an old welders adage: "thou shall not weld on cast iron or cold rolled steel" as there will be little on no penetration of the base metal. I'm contemplating a similar set up for a project car....and want to get it right. Advice?
BOB RENTON

You are correct. The center isn't cast iron. Never did an analysis on one but assumed it would be a nickel cast steel but I know it's not cast iron. Also, the tubes appear to be a decent grade of material but it's not hard. And who all does what you mention in welding them up? lol. Man, there's so many backyard welders that you could throw a stick and would probably hit one of them. Btw, never seen any tubes fail after being welded by a BYW and none of mine have either.....but mine are usually done inside the shop

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’m not gonna get in to it with ya. Do as YOU like. I do things my way that tried, true and tested.

Have fun.......

 

[Cranky]

Recently did one and man, seems the older I get, the worse my welds look! Just don't weld enough I to stay in practice and make things look purdy....but could see there was good penetration at least. I've always ran stick in doing these but might have to do some practice with my MIG rig since I have a tendency to be able to make things look better. It should have the nads since it's an old MillerMatic 200. Kinda chaps my butt that I bought a Syncrowave 250DX right after retiring and the TIG side decided to mess up just as I was getting used to it

 

[RJRENTON]

I’m not gonna get in to it with ya. Do as YOU like. I do things my way that tried, true and tested.

Have fun.......

To rebut your comment and not to disrespect your work or results, but my questions/comments are based on desiging high temperature gas to gas heat exchangers that were built to the American Society of Mechanical Engineers Section VIII Division 1 Unfired Pressure Vessel Code for both Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel construction. In addition, I am familiar with the AWS D1-1 structural welding requirements for carbon steel construction. I did the Weld Procedure Specs and the welder Procefure Qualification Record requirements for the ASME code. My questions were just second nature involving joining materials by either TIG, MIG, FLUXCORE, STICK, even sub-arc methods.
BOB RENTON