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I remember the hood treatments from when the cars were new - dealer lots and 2 buddies' cars - sheen was dead flat, and if you got any wax on it, good luck getting it off. I don't recall any metallic but definitely a roughness - something like sandpaper, like the suede interior finish - but...

I've done 2 early Bs with healthy RB 440s - a '63 and a '64 - both ran Performer RPM intakes & Holleys & drop base air cleaners, still had room.

Another great source is restorationspecialties.com - I used them on a couple Early-B builds, and they know their stuff.

Interesting car, and in the brochure-car colors - seems to be an early RR, but it has the '69-style pleated seat inserts (instead of flat Reed grain like 3 of my originals had), and yet the silver & black was '68 only. I guess Lynch Road was ahead of the other plants? Weirder yet, my current '68...

I've owned a couple '68 Hemi RRs, and did a ground-up on one of them. Saw that car for sale, and it looks clean & cool in photos, but a lot has been changed from stock. Besides checking for the VIN being RM21J8, it's seen enough mods (as many did) that it's not likely to be returned to original...

Base interior in silver & black got black carpet for 4-speeds, black rubber floor covering for automatics. Per original cars (owned 2) and the factory info.

The clips really grip - I start at the front and have often had to give the garnish a pretty scary yank down. A trim clip tool is handy.

B-pillar says it's either a Belvedere (RL21) or a Road Runner (RM21).

The '68 HT is coming mid-year, supposedly new tooling. MCW and Scale Finishes both have lacquer for air brush use, in pretty much any factory or other color you want. For windows and a lot of other stuff, Evergreen's Canopy Glue is a godsend. A good model-making forum/site is Mopars In Scale.

Factory correct color, including the aftermarket stuff, is what I do. To me it looks cleaner, neater, and is easier to keep clean. I also take the Edelbrock scripts off the intake.

#8 chrome plated phillips-head sheet metal screws, about 3/4" long IIRC. Stainless will work.

These 2 (at left) haven't seen water in 3 years (yellow) & 5 (blue) - but they live a sheltered life: they never see rain, dirt roads, or get parked under a tree. Never a night outdoors so far. I washed each one when they first came home - Meguiar's car wash soap - but since then, an occasional...

Windshield garnish mldg: remove screws at ends, loosen inboard screws, allow mldg to drop. If you need it completely removed, no problem, won't affect headliner. Lining up screws is mldg is removed is easy if locations are marked with masking tape or an awl is used to locate 1st hole. Side...

If the engine is VIN stamped - back by the oil pressure sender, on the bellhousing flange - the trans should be also, same area. Decor Group came along late enough that the odds are pretty good for stamping. It'll be something like "8G123456" or 8A-etc depending on assembly plant. Also, look...

I haven't used one of those, but that isn't a good product review ! I've used mostly Milodon or MP, but I open up the louvers a bit to promote better drainage. Also a big proponent of using the biggest pan I can fit in the space allowed, but that sounds like probable overkill for the OP.

Street use = no problem. The issue with wet-sump shallow pans is that the rotating assy scoops oil up from the sump as RPM increases. At higher RPM, that oil becomes a rope around the crank & rods, which not only creates drag, but aerates the oil. Smokey Yunick proved that on his Spintron back...

As for the Tremec idea, until their new one (TKX), you had to cut up the floor & torsion bar crossmember. Rather than cut the car up, either the TKX or Passon's OD gearset swapped into the original trans is a better path to freeway use, or change the rearend gears to something taller. Nice car -...

Door glass/window regulators - used, worked fine when removed 40 years ago, stored inside since in case I ever needed them. $150 for the pair - don't want to separate. Shipping in the US should be around $20-$25 depending on distance. I'm in the Boise, ID area.

Pretty car. "A" is Lynch Rd, not St. Louis (G). Interior looks like '69 red vs '68 burgundy. '68 exterior side trim instead of '69 MAY be related to expense of the correct '69 moldings, stripe & blackout, but there would need to be a paper trail & confirmation on that. Original 4-speed GTX...

'68-'70 RR VINs start with RM, as already mentioned. For '68-'69, 5th digit is H for 383, J for Hemi. 383 Coupes & HTs shouldn't have torque boxes, Hemi cars should - though a few exceptions (mistakes) have surfaced over the years. T-bars should be .880" (383) or .920" (Hemi), should have...