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You are limited with 15" tires unfortunately. Our upper arms allow much more caster, easier alignment and better camber gain due to the taller ball joint. You'll know if you've gone too far, that's why I suggest 1 shim.

That explains the ease of steering. Tiny tires and not a ton of caster. 8 degrees caster and 275 or wider tires make a difference. Check the old mopar action article "Pumping it down" we have shim kits in stock on the site.

you can add a shim to your pump. Also what are your alignment specs and wheel/size backspace. So many things affect steering effort.

correct

Do not add any shims. What I said is your pump should either have zero shims or 1 shim max. Otherwise, you might be able to turn the wheel at idle.

The Borgeson box likes more pressure than the OE box. In most cases, zero or 1 shim will remain in the relief valve on a Saginaw pump. The feel is built into the box. Unlike the ancient article of MA showing how to make the OE box harder to turn by changing the relief pressure.

I have them in stock. Bergmanautocraft.com

This is NOT my kit.

When the boxes are purchased from Bergman Auto Craft, I include directions and and FAQ page explaining this is normal. The box is too narrow to be lined up exactly without an offset. The coupler is designed to articulate and plunge. The critical thing is the position of the pitman which has...

Anyone with individual concerns read what I wrote above. Here it is again. This is something I've experienced on an off for several years. I started porting out the fluid passages approx 2 years ago. The flare fittings installed in the pressure side specifically, obstruct most of the port in...

Yes. [email protected]

The porting will help. You don't need anything special to take it apart. You can send me the whole box, it would be easier. As far as the stiff steering at idle, thats a pump issue. If you want to pursue this further, email me [email protected]

Its hard to photograph. Look down the pressure port in the center of the brass flare insert. You'll see it. There is no diagram or instructions on a rebuild. Why are you rebuilding, and specifically, what's the issue?

This is something I've experienced on an off for several years. I started porting out the fluid passages approx 2 years ago. The flare fittings installed in the pressure side specifically, obstruct most of the port in the casting. We grind this away to improve fluid flow. I know this has dropped...

Best to contact the source directly. 516-384-6438

The factory box put the centerlink exactly like this as well.

The box is designed this way. Since the shafts internally make the box narrower, you will not get it to align exactly straight. The curved shoes inside the coupler were designed to articulate so no need to change anything.

My t bars allow stock ride height. Add matching shocks and the ride will be excellent. There are a couple variables I’ve seen with motor mounts, center links on backwards.

This is no longer the case as I worked with the manufacturer to change the design.

We have the problem solver boot...