Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My pleasure, sir. I hope that fixes the issue. Nothing like bench pressing a 727 in and out of a car a half dozen times chasing an issue. Hopefully, it won't come to that. If the input shaft is non-lock up, you may be able to order just a non-lock up pump and compare to the one you have. If it...
As long as the pump and input shaft/front clutch hub are from a non-lock up trans, it should work. I've done this swap in the past with cable shift transmissions to use a modern converter and they've worked well. But, I would try to compare the pump to a later non-lock up version if possible.
From experience, I'm betting I know what the problem is. Short backstory. My dad had a "trans guy" rebuild the 727 for his '79 D100. The guy said he needed a new pump so he replaced it during the rebuild. The truck had the same issues you are experiencing. Heavy drag in reverse, funny noises...
Try changing the oil filter. I had the same thing happen under the same circumstances, coincidently in a 65 Coronet, and it was a collapsed Fram oil filter. If it's a Fram, throw it in the trash and use a Wix.
It doesn't matter that they are adjustable. Mopar had adjustable rockers on slant sixes up to Hemi's. The roller tip makes the difference and gives the effect on geometry as if the head has a longer valve. A longer valve means the shaft has to be raised. Trick Flow insists on a roller rocker...
This could be a problem. Trick Flow specifically states that their heads are to be used with a roller rocker. The stand/shaft position is way too high for a stock style non-roller rocker. That will make the opening, and closing, velocity very high at the seat which leads to valve bounce. Valve...
Mine was actually a square bore manifold I picked up many years ago at a swap meet. I have a pic of it on my old computer prior to porting. The ports were tiny.
You may have misunderstood what I was saying about the PRW rockers. Yes, I use a lot of them on street builds, because steel has a much longer fatigue life than aluminum if you want to put considerable miles on the car. I would rather avoid the roller bearings as well if they aren't needed. But...
Very nice Tony! Just as a clarification for those interested, those aren't standard T&D rockers. They are custom made for us to our specs and are only available through B3 Racing Engines. They are the ultimate in a single shaft Mopar rocker system.
That rocker motion across the valve tip is really bad. The MW heads I have in the shop have a step in the valve stem where the guide was digging in at full lift, due to the side loading from rocker sweep. They were using the same stock stands that you have.
That's entirely up to you, but like Jim (IQ52) mentioned in his post, once we know it can be better, we won't build a motor without making it right. I like to be within .010" of where the shaft should be. If you are off by .060" it may not seem like a lot, and relative to some other engines it's...
It's not off by a lot, but being a Trick Flow dealer, I am familiar with how much correction they normally take. You would have a much lower chance of failure than with a different head, but they can still use some tweaking.
You're on track, but a roller rocker acts on the valvetrain like a longer valve is in the head. That's why the shaft has to be raised, and the geometry is closer with more lift. Unfortunately, you can't get enough lift to get the geometry right without running a longer valve, which means raising...
Doug,
I'll try to address your questions in order, and the best I can.
First, what is needed. You spoke of budgets, and not being professional builders. It's stunning how many non-professionals want to build there own engines, presumably to save money in most cases, and then when they get to...