New 383 engine Issue

[jimbosride]

Ok … will try this forum once again. New engine in the Coronet that was built and dyno by CME. It had about 13 min dyno time with some full red line pulls from what the sheet said. Put the engine
In the car and started it with all new gauge and sending unit for oil pressure. Ran the engine in the car about 10 minutes. Had good oil pressure all around. Went to drive the car and as soon as I get on in first
Gear the oil pressures goes to zero and the light goes on. When I slowed down it regain pressure then the next acceleration it it lost pressure and never came back. Push the car back to the shop. Talk to the engine builder and we went over all the issues but he had no answers. I guess I will have to pull the gear and try it with a drill. My question is could this be something with the relief spring in the pump? Is the pump serviceable with the engine in?

CME told me to add 1-2 quarts of oil ….. did that with no luck. The brake in oil was chanced after it warmed up the first run. I’m not a mopar expert but any ideas would be appreciated. I really don’t want to pull this engine again.



And by the way any one pull the engine without the 4 speed?

 

[davek]

Do you have a mechanical oil gauge you can put on it? Then if that doesnt work I think I would change the pump and go from there. You dont have to pull engine to change oil pump. Yes to can pull the spring out of the oil pump and also pull engine and leave 4 spd in car.

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

so does it loose oil pressure when it just sitting still and rev the engine up in rpm ? if so its pump or drive gear , if not . the oil is leaving the pickup in the pan . what type of pickup does it have , some after market pickups are just holes in the bottom of the pickup , and if its to close to the floor of the pan , it can suck to the pan and prevent the pump from making pressure . just some thoughts .

 

[jimbosride]

It has a stock pick up and pan. It had good oil pressure at idle and at rev when sitting still .... even when driving it down the block.... but once I accelerated it went to zero?
so what the procedure to replace the oil pump? and do these relief spring ever malfunction on a new pump (Rebuilt?). I am running the stock sensor and the gauge feed to the 2 ports in the back behind the intake..... is there any issues with that? .... engine did run and sound great. Probably the first thing is to spin the pump? can the gear under the distributor come out if the length of the distributor is wrong.... just guessing here . Thank you for the help.

 

[PRHeads]

Get the priming tool out.

If it won’t prime up pretty quickly, I’d be pulling the bypass cap off the pump to see if the plunger is stuck.

If that’s good, I’d pull the pump off and take it apart.

If you don’t find anything there, I’d suspect the pick up tube broke off.
Draining the oil and poking around through the drain plug hole should be able to answer that question.

 

[furious70]

I agree with the uncovering the pickup if it only does it on launch. If it sits in Park and revs and idles with oil pressure and it steady state down the road has oil psi at rpm then it has to be uncovering the pickup. Baffles in the pan then.

 

[furious70]

Wait, unclear from your posts, is there no psi now at all?

 

[davek]

how new is the build? If brand new the shop should be looking at it. How was the oil pressure when ran on the dyno,were you there during the test? Im sorry but if you spent x amount of dollars then they need to address it not you. Once you open this they can deny warranty.

 

[jimbosride]

Engine is a complete rebuild. The dyno sheet is not a copy and it ran for 13 min. If you go to there web site (CME) they build a lot of engines. The eng has Zero pressure now.
The engine does have a warranty.... not sure what happens if I go into it , I will ask them. They did say if I pull the oil pump and found an issue they would send me another. If I pull the engine it's going back to them. It's just a real bummer now that the car is done. The clutch and new 4speed seem to work fine (while it had oil pressure) I will have to call them back to see how they would handle it now that there is an issue with there build . It just blows me away that it ran so great with good pressure.. then .... no pressure??? Thank you for the help .... next I will spin the oil pump.... where is a good place to get a rod to spin it?

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

if it makes oil pressure all the time , and its just during take off it drops off . its not the pump it where the pickup meets the oil sump , unless its the pickup tube like @PRHeads says . but the tube can be cracked below the sitting oil level . and under the throttle it draws the oil into the motor and the tube sucks air even if the pickup is in the oil sump . i had a damaged pump from a parts room drop , it sheared the drive from the rotor and because the break was on an angle it would make oil pressure , but first check it with a true mechanical oil pressure gauge . than talk with the engine builder , before you tear into it . oh ya that engine with the damage oil pump , cost the parts store a rebuild engine .

 

[wagonman]

Using a Hi volume pump and a stock drive will snap the hex off. Pull the dist and drive or pull the pump to inspect. Got to pull the Dist & drive to prime anyway.

 

[davek]

I would not start pulling parts,yes it sucks but you pull parts they can say you messed it up.

 

[jimbosride]

I don't think it has a high vol pump ... but davek and POMONAMISSE
makes a good points ..... let see what the engine builder suggest. Also were going to give the oil pump a spin.

 

[B3RE]

Ok … will try this forum once again. New engine in the Coronet that was built and dyno by CME. It had about 13 min dyno time with some full red line pulls from what the sheet said. Put the engine
In the car and started it with all new gauge and sending unit for oil pressure. Ran the engine in the car about 10 minutes. Had good oil pressure all around. Went to drive the car and as soon as I get on in first
Gear the oil pressures goes to zero and the light goes on. When I slowed down it regain pressure then the next acceleration it it lost pressure and never came back. Push the car back to the shop. Talk to the engine builder and we went over all the issues but he had no answers. I guess I will have to pull the gear and try it with a drill. My question is could this be something with the relief spring in the pump? Is the pump serviceable with the engine in?

CME told me to add 1-2 quarts of oil ….. did that with no luck. The brake in oil was chanced after it warmed up the first run. I’m not a mopar expert but any ideas would be appreciated. I really don’t want to pull this engine again.



And by the way any one pull the engine without the 4 speed?

View attachment 1303691

Try changing the oil filter. I had the same thing happen under the same circumstances, coincidently in a 65 Coronet, and it was a collapsed Fram oil filter. If it's a Fram, throw it in the trash and use a Wix.

 

[Demonic]

I believe you're going to have to pull the pan and check the pickup tube for cracks- carefully.

 

[jimbosride]

ok .....

B3RE I may try that a try .... it is a new fram filter ........But it was the same issue with the NAPA filter that came with the engine. Any one know what the relief spring does?​

Just weird ..... but I do thanks everyone for there input ​

 

[Geoff 2]

Does it have enough oil in the pan? I would check that first & not rely on a dipstick that was picked up out of the dipstick pile....

 

[Wietse]

Get a small hose and mechanical gauge and install that temporary and verify. (stick it behind the window wiper and test drive)
The dash gauge could be subjected to voltage issues, ground issues etc. and I would never rely on just that gauge.

 

[Outlawd]

Change your oil filter, it happens. I know of at least 4 different instances including myself with new builds that the filter plugged weather its from assembly lube or something in the oil gallies during the machining and assembly process or a bad filter who knows but its worth a try before pulling motor.

 

[Dave6T4]

If the engine has a builder's warranty, I definitely would not open it up. Try changing the filter and oil. Refill with 5 quarts of 20W40 and see what happens. If this does not do it, pull the engine and let the builder take it apart. Make sure you are there for inspection.