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The axle is going to break [ if it in fact does break ] where it is thinnest/weakest, which is usually where the splines end. Where the damage on THIS axle is in the thickest part of the axle, & that area is re-inforced in operation by the inner brg race. Axles usually break from one too many...

[1] Wear pattern is going to dependf on mileage the cam has done & spring tensiom. [2] Any FT lifters made after 1995 are suspect. [3] That is why you see me saying, ad nauseum: get your factory lifters re-faced.

You see that car..... It weighed two tons & got to a top speed of 118 mph...with a TINY 2bbl carb. It had great acceleration getting to 118 mph....

The 650 AVS2 would be better for a 5200 lb vehicle.

At 0.32 ohms on the primary winding, that is about half of what the OEM HEI coil was, 0.6 ohm. The HEI modules had internal current limiting to about 5.5 amps, so I suspect the module is faulty.

Depends on the budget.... Biggest improvement would be a stroker kit.

Use Loctite Bearing retainer...& run it.

Is that the E core coil, #8207? I think it is quite possible that the extra current the coil was drawing has damaged the ECU. If it is damaged, any voltage readings are probably suspect. If you have the #8207, now would be a good time to convert to a 4 pin HEI module. No bal res reqd, you get...

0.015" for an unknown cam.

Another thing to check is the float level.

What I think IS crazy is loosening bolts...& re-torqing them once the engine has been run. You are breaking the seal has formed.

No, you don't advance it until it pings..... You need to do things in the correct sequence... Man or auto? Vacuum at idle? Valve lash? Are the passages in the carb base fully covered by the carb mounting pad? If not, you get air leaks. First, you need to get some timing marks on the dampener. I...

The MSD instructions say it is NOT necessary to remove/bypass the bal res....

No, there is NOT 100 psi there. Very little pressure actually, just crankcase blowby pressure. See the 2 holes in the back of the cam brg? That allows the oil to flow back into the pan so there is no pressure build up. Dan, Are you sure the leak was from the cam plug? Sil should have sealed it...

Virg, Good work! None of what you have reported is news to me, as I have been doing this for decades. The only thing that varies is the actual numbers slightly, irrespective of name is on the valve covers.....

Nope. If I turn the dist to retard the ign timing, the engine runs hotter. Same engine, same cooling system. Engine is now inefficient, same as when you lower the comp ratio.

I doubt the the current is dropping off with rpm rise. I suspect the measuring equipment is not fast enough to record it in the shorter time span.

The coil &.....the bal res....when used with inductive ign [ which is HEI & Chrys & many others ]. Think of the module, ECU as an electronic switch. If the coil you are using is designed to be used with a bal res, then it must be used.

Get a new cam..& find some factory lifters, have them re-faced & use with the new cam.

Nice try...