Lifter replacement

[Doorkicker]

Buddy has a 440 with baic flat hydraulic cam, 241/245 @50, .525 lift. Four lifters went bad/broke... So, what is best advice / option...
*Replace just the bad ones
*Replace all of them
*Rebuild the broken ones (replace guts, keep body)
*Other

Thx

 

[pnora]

Buddy has a 440 with baic flat hydraulic cam, 241/245 @50, .525 lift. Four lifters went bad/broke... So, what is best advice / option...
*Replace just the bad ones
*Replace all of them
*Rebuild the broken ones (replace guts, keep body)
*Other

Thx

Toss them all in the trash. Then tear the motor down and start over. That trash is all over the inside of that motor.

 

[bigbluedodge]

Define went bad/broke. Is there debris or they just won't stay pumped up. If there are pieces in the motor you need to find them....but if they just go flat perhaps you could inspect the cam lobe and replace them if the cam is OK. I would at least replace all the lifters.

 

[beebest]

I just tried this with my 383, had four lifters that looked like they weren't spinning, no obvious looking damage to cam. Put four new ones in, still had the same loud ticking same place, cylinder 6. Pulled lifters to take a look and one of the new four was not spinning. I pulled engine, tore it down and fortunately everything was extremely clean. I have new cam and lifters on order from Crower. I'll give bearings a refresh as well, crank looks fantastic. There was no debris anywhere.

 

[PRHeads]

It’s extremely unlikely to have lifters that show visible damage, and not have the cam needing replacement.

If the current cam is a fast rate .904 lifter design, you may want to consider something a little more “old school” for its replacement.

Was the current cam broken in with softer springs?
Break in oil?
That seems to be pretty much mandatory these days.

Good luck for round 2.

Edit- I guess a better description than just “broken” is needed to make a more informed recommendation.

 

[68-500]

Collapsed lifters or flatten lifters? Collapsed lifters Id replace. Flatten lifters requires at minimum new cam and lifters.

 

[threewood]

Please define bad or broken. Are they just not pumping up? Take them out, pull them apart and clean them, put them back in the same bores.

If they are flat, you need to find out why. The cam and lifters would need replaced. Check all new ones for a crown on the face and that they spin freely in the bore.

 

[Doorkicker]

Thank you to all of you that have responded! Super helpful. To elaborate what I mean by broken is they're extremely soft. Feel like they may be pumping up but inconsistently. The faces on the lifters in the cam looks great. These are the pro Magnum from comp cam so they typically don't have a lot of give.. I think they're designed for a shorter stroke in the hydraulic function. So when these four seem to be very very soft and the push ride would go far into the lifter I figured something was not right on the inside of the lifter.
Thanks again! Looking forward to more information fellas

 

[RemCharger]

Thank you to all of you that have responded! Super helpful. To elaborate what I mean by broken is they're extremely soft. Feel like they may be pumping up but inconsistently. The faces on the lifters in the cam looks great. These are the pro Magnum from comp cam so they typically don't have a lot of give.. I think they're designed for a shorter stroke in the hydraulic function. So when these four seem to be very very soft and the push ride would go far into the lifter I figured something was not right on the inside of the lifter.
Thanks again! Looking forward to more information fellas

You added the most important part- which lifters they are. These are not regular lifters. They are basically a hyd version of a solid lifter. In the old days, they called for a hot preload of .002- .004 . I tried to find a link, but they're all pdf. In any event , they changed the spec to zero to 1/8 turn preload. my assumption would be for an easier adjustment procedure.
they do alluded to wrecking the lifters if set like your average hyd lifter.
Mine are from 2000 and have been perfect with no readjustments. No noise. 6600 rpm and happy.
hope this helps .

 

[PRHeads]

If the heads you have will allow you to see the top of the lifters, see if the plunger retaining clips are still in place.

I’ve seen it where if the valvetrain is run into the unhappy zone, to the point where the pushrods are dancing in the lifters, the clips get damaged and become dislodged from the lifter body and are just riding around on the pushrod.

 

[threewood]

Do you have adjustable rocker arms or are the heads/deck been milled?

 

[RemCharger]

Do you have adjustable rocker arms or are the heads/deck been milled?

Precisely. You HAVE to have adjustability with these lifters.

 

[Doorkicker]

Do you have adjustable rocker arms or are the heads/deck been milled?

Adjustable

 

[Doorkicker]

If the heads you have will allow you to see the top of the lifters, see if the plunger retaining clips are still in place.

I’ve seen it where if the valvetrain is run into the unhappy zone, to the point where the pushrods are dancing in the lifters, the clips get damaged and become dislodged from the
lifter body and are just riding around

Collapsed lifters or flatten lifters? Collapsed lifters Id replace. Flatten lifters requires at minimum new cam

Collapsed lifters or flatten lifters? Collapsed lifters Id replace. Flatten lifters requires at minimum new cam and lifters.

I think these will qualify as collapsed I think. The game has been broken in for quite some time. The engine probably has 200 hours.

I think I'm just going to have to pull off the intake and take a better inspection. I can see down down past the area in the head with a flashlight to see the top of the lifters but they seem okay. So I'm just going to take the intake off and take a closer look

 

[Geoff 2]

Get a new cam..& find some factory lifters, have them re-faced & use with the new cam.