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The plates are what a friend of mine suggested. For $40usd it seems to be worth the cost. I've also found a few videos online using them, so I'll put in the order today. Doing a 130 mile trip in the car today. Only supposed to be 80F today, but it will be a good test. I still have the Robertshaw...
Ok, so I know this thread isn't about timing, and forgive my ignorance, but if total timing is 35 degrees, and initial is 10-12, to go about changing the initial without changing the total would require modifying or changing the weights?
How to limit mechanical advance in a mopar distributor...
So, digging through my shed full of parts I found the fan that came on the motor. A 20", 7 blade, A/C clutch fan. I also had the clutch for it(a new one i bought years ago and forgot about), and installed it yesterday afternoon. I had to modify the shroud for proper fit, but you can feel the air...
I've been running a 180 and just switched this year to a 195 to see if it would help, lol. With the 180, it would certainly run the 10-15 degrees cooler while moving, but then creep into the 210-220 range at idle, especially coming off the highway where it was at 3100rpm(60mph)for a while. Then...
Running a Cold Case 26" rad, 16psi cap, a 19" 6 blade fixed Derale fan with 4" wide fins, and a shroud with a 20.5" opening. The cap is new, but I haven't checked to see if its working.
I'm currently running the single groove unit from 440Source I put on the car years ago.
Water Pump Pulley - Non A/C - New Reproduction
I've been fighting overheating issues, at idle, for years. I've tried different stats. Currently running a 195 Robertshaw. I know airflow is the problem as...
I've looked up NOS switches and am seeing prices in the $500+ range. The switches on Moparts look the exact same as the Rockauto, unless someone can correct me on that. I mean it is what it is, but damn that's a big chunk of change.
Thank you guys so much. The issue I'm having isn't with that piece, its with my brake lights. When I wiggle the hazard light switch back and forth, the brake lights come on and off, while I'm pressing the brake pedal. So I removed the signal switch to see what's going on and I just barely...
Excellent points. It's looking like the M&H, maybe ordered from Year One(based on price)is the best choice. I will likely speak to someone at M&H, let them know what I've got, and get their advice on moving forward. Sadly, there is a chance I won't even take my car out of storage this year(work...
I will certainly post on which way I go. $2000 for a harness(M&H in Canadian dollars)is a lot right now with cost of living here, and I was considering selling the car earlier this year. It's still in storage and with my work schedule this summer, I'll only have the car out a handful of times...
I'm getting a little tired of constantly fighting electrical demons, and while I should have done this years ago when the car was nothing but a shell, I didn't. This is my 1970 Plymouth Satellite which I put a 440/727 in to replace the old 318/904 combo. There is such a huge difference in price...
For context, last year I had this problem. After many hours of sorting through everything, I found the signal switch wiring under the steering wheel to be the culprit. A wire that is riveted on came loose and touched another wire, causing the brake lights to stop working. A little solder and...