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Or a combination of the two - higher neg camber combined with too much toe in will increase scrubbing of the inside shoulder. If you run a lot of negative camber keep the toe in to a lesser setting -1/16” max.

I would check the baffle in the valve cover closely. Maybe one of the spot welds broke and it’s vibrating and resonating on the valve cover. But, if you have aftermarket aluminum valve covers this may not be applicable.

Some questionable info in the article. A disconnect plug so engines could be swapped out faster. I assume they are speaking of the one on the valve covers which is usually described as there to make pulling the valve cover easier for adjusting valves. And a 3-speed transmission was standard...

Are any of our US/Canadian drag strips doing the same?

Anyone know about the subject?

This is in reference to non-hydraulic TO bearings. I should have been clearer about that.

This came up on another forum. I’ve known about self aligning TO bearings for some time and my impression was that most of the higher quality TOBs today are self-aligning. My impression was they had become wide spread was to cope with diapraghm clutches and irregular finger alignment. However...

I guess technically if you could work out how to hook the hoses to the AC evaporator coil it would sort of work but they are smaller lines and passages so heat output would probably be a little low.

My car also has a bog anytime I slam the throttle open in first from a slow roll. I worked on it for about 6 months a couple years ago with the help of Dragonslayer and never could get it worked out completely. The only thing that seemed to greatly lessen it was to replace the accelerator pump...

I like the .100 better myself. It actually looks real good to my less than professional eye. I know you are tired of messing with it but I would try a .095 to .097 setup to make sure you are in the zone.

Mine have loose primary throttle shafts but the only fuel that leaks out of them is when I prime the engine down the throat, or spill a little gas down the throat when filling the bowls. But it is a vacuum leak when the engine is running and I plan to have them bushed sometime.

I replaced the heater core in my factory AC 67 and did not remove the box - did it in the car. It was 20 years ago and I don’t remember the details but I sure didn’t want to discharge my AC if I didn’t have too. Stripped out the console and pass seat I’m sure but otherwise did all the work up...

What changes did you make when you went back through the carbs Bill?

Yeah, I should have commented on checking the carrier ring gear flange out with a dial indicator before mounting the ring gear. If it isn’t real clean and flat then you will have nothing but trouble setting it up. I don’t remember exactly what the spec for run out is but probably just 2 or 3...

I have a 489 but most threads for a 742 reference starting with a .090 shim.

What gear ratio? Let us know how they go and especially once you can try them out.

2nd vote for Perry Mason although I don’t remember many Chrysler cars, mostly Ford and GM.

I owned a 17 Shelby GT350 for a few years and while it was pretty much a track ready car it wasn’t a great car to drive around in on less than perfect city streets having a lot of tramlining and followed every rut and bump in the road. I discovered that factory alignment specs called for toe...

I aligned my GTX a couple weeks ago and set camber at .25 degrees (-). Caster came out at 1.87 degrees (R) and 1.75 degrees left. I set toe in at 1/8 in with some new alignment plates that measure distance a couple inches past the tire edge. I’m used to using an old tram gage that snugs in...

My mistake - I mistakenly thought he was replying to a post of mine.