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Yes I believe I used this in the past but can’t remember did it dry fairly hard?

Hey guys Happy Thanksgiving! Thank you for all the help support and encouragement over the years! Couldn’t have come this far without you. Hope everyone has a happy and healthy break from the grind. Ron

What type of seam sealer dries hard and is paintable? Do all urethane sealers dry hard? I don’t want the stuff that stays gooey.

What about the roof rail weather strip? Seems like a contact cement would be ideal since it’s an overhead installation.?.

Thank you Wayne your always so helpful to me and I appreciate it a lot!

Did you guys @dadsbee @1 Wild R/T use the same glue on the door seals as well?

Yeah in researching this I read your past post showing where yours cracked. I got mine from Rick Ehrenberg. He said these particular switches are made by an OEM and he sells good stuff from my past experience. Old OEM switches may be correct but if plastic breakage is an issue, 60 year old...

Confirmed just now new turn signal switch was bad. I didn’t want to blame any parts as I rebuilt my entire harness and it was possible I made a wiring error. But indeed bad switch!

Was thinking of pinion angle measurement? Or spring curvature? That kind of measurement. I am just not familiar enough to know. But leaf springs are fairly inexpensive so I might just replace them. They are old like me….

Any inputs on leaf spring inspection? What to measure other than Left Right comparison? When do you know they need to be replaced when only worn not broken etc? This would be the time for me to do it …. If needed…

Do you guys remove the leaf spring and do this on the bench? If so since these are the original leafs should they be rebuilt/replaced? I do notice about a 1/2 droop but not sure if it’s the bushings or the spring or both etc.

Time to rebuild my rear leaf shackles. Any recommendations on how much of the hardware to replace and what mfg kit to buy and where? There’s a ton of stuff out there. Looking for best OE fit and not needing high performance. Thank you, MF

Now Im 90% sure it’s the Wheel horn assy. I’ll post my results later. Apparently it’s a very common issue….

OK it was the relay as I suspected. However It now it appears the horn signal (gnd) line is shorted (horn stays on) and I believe it’s the switch. I am running a Grant wheel. When I disconnect the turn signal header connector it’s off. Ohmed out the switch side of the connector and indeed it’s...

Great that helps so much as I did try and ground the relay and it didn’t energize. So that confirms a bad relay.

Simple question. I assume the turn signal switch to horn relay connection ( coil energizer ) is 12V from inside the turn signal switch and not a ground signal signal. Horn stopped working need to determine if its my turn signal switch (more than likely) or relay.

Thank you. Yes the Progression Distributor/Ignition system enables me to bump the timing at such small intervals I am able to finally tune for a really comparable idle both in and out of gear at idle. Can’t do this with any other ignition system that I am aware of. Really pleased so far with it.

sometimes you have to do what you have to do.

Just updating this thread. I got everything working except the rear hazards. The front hazards work so it’s not the switch. I have signal down to the body connector un-plugged. So the issue is in the rear harness but I have turn signals and brakes and running lights in the rear. Kinda strange.

I didn’t remove it. What made you think I did? Nothing. It was missing this part. I’ve documented pretty much every part in this car before I disassembled it. Now it’s about 99% assembled all parts accounted for just a few pieces of missing trim.