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beer time in the shop is how I rebuilt my 440, and none of my buddies know anything about motors! it was slow but got done. sometimes it is easier to have a helping hand and throw the hood on the roof with a moving blanket under it.

that is a good idea on the baby powder. I will attempt to clean it and puff it. the leak is always seen at the leading edge of the bell housing and rolls back about 2" and then drips. I never thought of relocating the vent. I will look into that also.

before you pull the hood mark the edges of the hinge brackets and boom takes all the guess work out of realigning it.

All 4 lights are on no matter high or low. I have a new foot switch on order it was a whole 11$ I’ll tear into the wiring tomorrow after work. One thing I can do is power the circuits independently with my power probe and test each light and or part on its own. Plus pull the normal data with...

for the question on the ballast resistor you can bypass it with a heavy g wire for the full 12v. I don't know if it will effect the rest of your ignition with the mopar box but I had to do that with my MSD system. I used 2 10g wires braided together for good measure. been good for 5 years now.

I haven't ran the car at night much, should only 2 of the bulbs be lit in low beam? right now all 4 are on no matter what and when I click the high beam floor switch they all stay lit too but the one "bright" one changes the output like a highbeam would.

I have an inspection cam I might be able to sneak it up by the main seal. I'll hit it with some brake clean and run it a little in the barn to see if I can find a fresh drip.

I didn't see any leaks around the dipstick. there is no leak at the shift linkage. I don't see any fluid on the tq converter or flex plate.

I have a 727 that is always leaking out the front. I had the trans rebuilt by a quality shop and it runs fine but after I park it, it always leaks. not a ton but enough to make the shop floor slippery. I check the fluid level all the time and it doesn't really seem to go down. its getting...

I love having the lift off hood. it makes working on the ol girl SO much easier. plus at car shows I can show off the crap wiring I have done with it. But I do not have the display rods. I usually put a moving blanket on my roof and put the hood up there when at car shows. When I am home in...

thank you for those prints I will work on pin testing the bulk head and load testing the switch and headlight circuits. I had a bad electric problem with my Duramax a few years ago so I have a ton of ground straps that I can place to see if that changes anything. The car is on its 3rd or 4th...

I have the HF 12k on a cradle kind of wish I did the 9k but it can be hooked into the bumper of my truck and pull it out or the tractor when they're stuck a lot easier with a snach block. one thing that is of note, switching out from a steel to synthetic rope is you save 20ish pounds of weight...

last I checked it was around 14 something. So I have a 1 wire alt and it is direct to battery no voltage reg. when I did have the voltage reg hooked up the dash read good but the battery would not get a charge. I put a new one on and still didn't charge. I can try another one. I also do not...

I'll dig into the voltage and see if I get a drop or a change. I'll verify there is a solid ground the car does shake a lot so it could be loose. it oddly does not change when off idle. I'll pull the book out and check the bulkhead. I do have a stand alone harness that I bought online...

I was driving my A12 a couple months back and when I turned on the headlights I had 1 dim but useable, 3 super dim, high beam or low didn't change much. They are fully lit but they are not worth anything driving wise. I believe all of them are replaced with Sullivan (Sylvania?) ones not long...

welcome and the run to RKN is always a blast. if you still have that 440 I’m guessing you can save it. I launched a rod like that through the pan of my Coronet Superbee and everything turned out just fine in the end, now it has more power than ever

As far as the never failed to start it ver well could be working but it could have cycled it to neutral and tried again to start. It’s never left me on the road like that. The car’s linkage vs the gear selection on the trans had a miss and that was about 1/4” but it wasn’t anyways. I had a...

The NSS has never been a reliable tool on this car. I have never verified that it works outside of “park” or “neutral” and not even sure it is those. As the column doesn’t show those are the actual gears that are secreted but close as there is a little slop. The NSS has been far down my list of...

I got the car up on the stands again today and measured the transmission and the park rod is 1-3/4” with slack and 2” with the spring pulled. This is the same on the back up trans. So I put it back together and actuated it a few more times and I had park every time on the stands. No clicks or...

I’m trying to do this from memory but there 100% is a spring on it and if I pull the park rod towards the rear the spring returns it towards the nose of the car. The post 5 was one I read through this morning before I went to work on it because I was thinking I could have a 904 rod. I do not...