Search results for query: *

I used the plastic version of JB weld which is a 2-part epoxy. I roughed up both sides beforehand as well. It looks like it stuck to the metal, but not the plastic. The vacuum ports are so small, plastic welding is not really an option. I risk doing too much damage. I think threading the...

So the bezel fix worked great. Unfortunately the pop rivet did not. First time I drove it I noticed the problem was back. I can see that the JB weld has detached from the plastic so the vacuum leak is back. The pop rivet barrel I used was very short. I've seen some guys thread them and...

I JB welded the boss back on. Right after I started, I realized some gussets were a good idea. So I scrambled some together before my epoxy set and threw it together. Forgive the sloppy work, but it should hold.

I knew that one of my HVAC vacuum ports was broken, but I was hoping it would work anyways. It didn't. So out it came for repair. I used a pop rivet barrel as many others. It was a tad shorter, but it worked. One of my complaints of the dash insert I have is how the HVAC control connects...

Nevermind, I tested the old one to see if it was a ground issue and now the old works just fine. Cars are fun sometimes.

What's a decent but not crazy expensive switch to use? I bought a $20 switch off eBay and surprise surprise, it's garbage. The hazard switch is all kinds of confused. It blinks left and right alternatively when you push left or right, puts the hazards on with the switch off, etc.

Are you saying the turn signal switch or is that something else I'm not familiar with?

Because both filaments work (one with lights on and the other with the blinker) makes me think it's not a ground issue.

I noticed my brake lights were out on the passenger side (both bulbs). Driving lights come on no problem. There are two plugs under the gas fill so I thought that harness might have an issue. I tried the blinkers, which use the brake filament, and they work just fine. Things that work: -...

That sucks, but at least you got it sorted out. I did have to massage my tunnel a little bit to the right of the gas pedal to get proper clearance.

I wonder if the RMS mounts have the motor sit lower. I followed the Tremec recommendations and didn't need to cut the tunnel.

I bought the Holley sensor thinking it would be plug and play with the Holley harness. That would make sense wouldn't it?

I forgot I used a Holley MAT sensor, part number 554-121. So it will be different from what you're using

It's a metripack 150.2 plug. Not a 120 or a 150.1. I bought both of those first (thanks Holley....). I bought the plug and the pins from Custom Connector Kits for about $3. May want to do a visual confirmation on the style though first.

I used the Mopar one I believe and then clipped the plug and spliced in the correct one.

Trying to solve a window rattle issue on my front side window today. Found a nice pile of trash in the bottom of the door. Also it appears that I'm missing this hardware. I'm also missing the rear most one as well. Not sure how The glass still moves correctly with 2 out of 3 missing. The...

Here's a quick finished picture.

I found this tip on YouTube. Cobalt coupe seatbelt guides (2005 to 2010) fit the Procor seats as long as you switch sides and drill an extra hole. They're out of production and I didn't want to fork out $110 for a set on eBay. I picked these up at my local pull-a-part for about $10. I'll...

The Wesco belts have something similar. They also have a plastic sleeve to cover that part up.

Do you have a better picture of that? Is it built into the seat?