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72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

I found this tip on YouTube. Cobalt coupe seatbelt guides (2005 to 2010) fit the Procor seats as long as you switch sides and drill an extra hole. They're out of production and I didn't want to fork out $110 for a set on eBay. I picked these up at my local pull-a-part for about $10. I'll need to paint them. Hopefully the belt won't wear off all the paint over time. For now they work great.
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Trying to solve a window rattle issue on my front side window today. Found a nice pile of trash in the bottom of the door. Also it appears that I'm missing this hardware. I'm also missing the rear most one as well. Not sure how The glass still moves correctly with 2 out of 3 missing. The bottom one feels like it has a large washer behind it, but the manual doesn't appear to show that. Can anybody point me to the correct replacement hardware? I think I've found reproduction nuts, but not the bolts.
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This is what the one just below it looks like once removed.
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And I thought restoring my car was a nightmare. The engine swap was grate on your car and liked the detail you showed us. Think I will stick with my 383-motor due to a lot less work. Your swap is not for the faint of heart. Grate job and have fun with it. :thumbsup::drinks:
 
I knew that one of my HVAC vacuum ports was broken, but I was hoping it would work anyways. It didn't. So out it came for repair. I used a pop rivet barrel as many others. It was a tad shorter, but it worked.
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One of my complaints of the dash insert I have is how the HVAC control connects. It only has the left and right screw mount and doesn't support the rear. I added a zip tie to the rear to support the weight and in the process, the mounting boss for one of the sides broke off. I was literally done and I couldn't let well enough alone. I guess it would have broken off eventually, but it's quite a guy punch considering how much contortion is necessary to install it.
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I JB welded the boss back on. Right after I started, I realized some gussets were a good idea. So I scrambled some together before my epoxy set and threw it together. Forgive the sloppy work, but it should hold.
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So the bezel fix worked great. Unfortunately the pop rivet did not. First time I drove it I noticed the problem was back. I can see that the JB weld has detached from the plastic so the vacuum leak is back. The pop rivet barrel I used was very short. I've seen some guys thread them and screw them into the manifold. I would need a barrel about twice as long though to make that work. So I guess I'll have to tear it all out and try again.
 
So the bezel fix worked great. Unfortunately the pop rivet did not. First time I drove it I noticed the problem was back. I can see that the JB weld has detached from the plastic so the vacuum leak is back. The pop rivet barrel I used was very short. I've seen some guys thread them and screw them into the manifold. I would need a barrel about twice as long though to make that work. So I guess I'll have to tear it all out and try again.
JB weld typically does not adhere well to plastic especially smooth plastic. A better choice (IMO) is 2 part epoxy however both will work if you really rough up the plastic. What I have done is use an old soldering iron to basically stipple the plastic where I indent to put the epoxy or the JB weld. Also I roughen up the "nipple" so that the glue has something to hold onto.

All this said, my "go to" would always be to plastic weld the parts together first and then use epoxy or JB weld second (more of a sealant than a structural component). In this instance I would use a soldering iron to melt plastic from one component to the other (nipple to the bezel or the other way around) kind of kneading or mixing them together to make a semi flexible paste which when cool will become structural. You can get a bag plastic sticks from harbor freight that will include some ABS plastic that should mix with the bezel and hopefully the nipple.

The key here is like plastics, if you can find that you are in the game. If not then you need to build up some plastic on the bezel using the same type plastic (I believe ABS) so that it sticks, then move this around your chosen nipple to hold it into place. Then use the epoxy or JB weld to seal it and provide some rigidity.

I have fixed many grilles, instrument clusters, etc. in this manner and it works very well and if done right will out live you. Again, the key is finding compatible plastics. I have even used pieces off of a broken component (say an old grille, plastic arm rest bezel, instrument cluster) as "the rod" for plastic welding the components.
 
Regular JB Weld will not bond to plastic. Does not chemically weld/bond, just sits there. There is another version they make which is supposed to bond, but it's not that great. If you have a connection at a local body shop, they have an adhesive that will. Dura Mix Quik Set is what we used at the shop I managed. The tech's used it for repairing hard plastic trim panels etc. where a clip mounting tab broke off. When it's curing, the part gets hot from the bond process. You can buy this stuff, or another brand, but its very pricey and requires a special double barreled caulking gun.
 
I used the plastic version of JB weld which is a 2-part epoxy. I roughed up both sides beforehand as well. It looks like it stuck to the metal, but not the plastic. The vacuum ports are so small, plastic welding is not really an option. I risk doing too much damage. I think threading the rivet into the plastic and then using JB weld to act as a sealant should work.
 
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