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I suppose your database up there can enter non existent/imaginary Vin numbers too... lol I would expect that you would at least have to have a legit Vin plate. Georgia is pretty forgiving when it comes to cars with bills of sales. 25 years and back do not need titles but you do need a legit Vin...
They might as well have just put this on it. Its what we get here in Georgia for a home built trailer.. Still has to pass inspection and you better put the tag on it in the correct spot. lol
Anyhow if your car is actually the car that that VIN belongs to here is the info..
Your decoded VIN information will be listed below.
WP23H71249468
Make:
W = Dodge Coronet / Charger
Price Class:
P = Premium
Body Type:
23 = 2 Door Hardtop
Engine:
H = 383 325HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
Model...
If you have already purchased the car it might be a problem trying to get it registered with that fake vin plate. Id say most certainly will be an issue. Id be talking to who ever I bought it from. Or the police lol...
That looks like someone cut that rectangle out of an old liscense plate and printed up a number. Now not saying the vin number is wrong Im just saying it should not be printed out on a sticker and put on a half assed plate. With screws.
It cant be both. Check below... One is a Dodge and the other is Plymouth. Post some pictures of them as they are attached. Seems like what you have is 2 different cars fender tags. Make sure the WP23 matches the VIN on the driver side pillar tag. Someone here could be looking for that RH23...
OE distrubutors would have clips that hold the cap on if im not mistaken. Pretty sure you have an MSD RTR distributor like Rem said.
Trace this wire back and I bet it goes to either a Orange/Chrome or Blue Mopar ECU. If that is a RTR distributor you wont need to use that. Wire it as the above...
The buttons are removed for green bearings. Dadsbee is correct. If one has them and the other doesn't you may run into problems with the axels not seating in all the way if you have green bearings on your axels.