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I think this video of my car taken when at 156K. Curriousyellow71 behind the wheel.

...it had multiple issues. The second to the back cam bearing was toast (photo). It ate the cam and lost a rod bearing at 178K. On a cold day -28* day the oil filter collapsed on it too about 8 months later the rod bearing went south. Not sure any of it was the actually engines fault, but...

I am also onboard with the 2266 swap idea too if stick with simple is the goal. If you want to run on 87 octane and use off the shelf lopey cams your better of in the 8s for compression. The newer 2295 have a narrower pin and are 30 grams lighter than the old 2295s. If it is an old 2295 I...

For a comparison. A smaller rattler cam 281*/289* @006” 227*/235*@ .050” .480” ish lift 109* LSA 67* of overlap Will pump 154-165 lbs of compression with the compression dropped to 9.3 The Bullet cam I mentioned has the same overlap, 67* if it is ground on 114LSA. It pumps 165-175 lbs of...

Maybe I missed it. Are you looking at flat tappet cams or rollers?

The thick head gaskets would probably work, then you could do a smaller cam. I think you still needs a bigger E/I cam split with domes, so a rattler probably isn’t a bad choice. Your engine builder might be cussing at you, nothing lines up very well on the top ends with the thick gaskets like...

...duration Exh profile on the cam with those domes. I”d rather do a mechanical cam, but a HFT you might consider a Bullet racing cams H15 239* @ .050” with .507” lift on the intake, H301/.34” with 249*@.050” 51” exhaust. 108 ICL, 112LSA. 87 octane probably would be better off with a...

When a bunch of SM parts get put together and everything works out as planned. I sit back in amazement. Don’t get me started on Speedmaster stories! LOL

You can get a bare set of actual Victors for around $790 each with valves from companies like Hughes. They are not exactly expensive.

I recently ran into someone having to replace the springs, valves (cupped tips) and guides (using oil) after a summer of driving on a set of Speedmaster heads. Tommy Boy comes to mind:

For pump gas if the compression is on the high end for the octane we often make the split 8 or more. I think it depends a lot on how well the exhaust flows. It is different also with a full exhaust on a street car. When you add more duration on the exhaust it allows the engine to pump more...

...changes when you compare the seat timing or the .050” timing. An example is a Comp cams retro fit thumper cam. Those thumper cams the LSA is 107*, but it has a 14* E/I split at .050”, it has the equivalent LSA @.050” of a 103.5* LSA single pattern cam @.050”. It has less acceleration on...

...engines is for single pattern cams. When you add more exhaust duration to the cam and keep overlap the same the LSA always becomes wider. So with 8* extra exhaust duration like those Elgin grinds that equation should really use 130 instead of 128. But then all the other overlap, compression...

We went that direction with a lot of our cars, still have some set up with tighter LSA’s, some single patterns. We got to the point on some cars that all more mid range push was going to do was make them hard to hook up, especially on the street. We went to bigger cams, bigger E/I splits, 8 to...

...size in a 440 using the same Elgin profile on a 105 LSA. If you took that 256/264 Elgin profile from the SBC and widened the LSA out to 108* on the 440, it would not only make more power in the 440 than the 264/272 105 LSA I mentioned, it would also likely do it with less head flow. We have...

.030” below the deck sound correct to me for 1970. Seems like I recall the 70 383 and 440s were about .030” to .040”shorter than the 68 and 69. Our 383 is set up with pistons that are .004” from zero deck, and has the heads milled .070” to 72cc. It is just barely over 10. Not many factory...

If they only made fenders for a Coronet. That is more frustrating than the price. Lol

I think there are several factors present on cam failures. For the most part, if you loose one lifter or two, either right after break in, or after several thousand miles, but after the failure, the rest of the cam looks good, that is either soft metal or improper machining on those lobes that...

I think HR5 is pretty much as good as it gets in these old street driven engines with flat tappet cams. I once drained the oil on an engine that had a zddp additive in it, the zddp additive came out first, then the oil. Not exactly what you hope for with an zddp additive. Lol