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That mounting setup was a horrible failure. It wouldn’t easily come off so I converted it to these bolt together tube connectors which perform perfectly. Bolting a stand to it would add time and complexity when at the races but is still an option. I’ve got lots of time to think on it.
Today I spent some time getting the mufflers situated before putting the pipes in. I ended up putting extension pieces on the outlets so I could move the mufflers forward and give room around the sway bar in the back and more driveshaft clearance in between the units. Swapped places with the TTI...
It wasn't what I would consider a "big" scoop, but I did have this on my Tina.
My,buddies car, that he built in my garage, had what I consider a big scoop. (B1 original stroker.)
Nice thing about 17" wheels
you can fit many aftermarket disc brake kits w/far more room
& on a bigger wheel well like the B-bodies have in 68-70 anyway
17 front & 18's rear is the about the biggest I'd do, fits nicely
if you get the right tire/wheel combo, it 'still looks good'
& not too...
If you have your owners manual, there will be a listing of bulb numbers and positions. Top one may be a 1004, lower a 67. LED replacements available. I replaced my interior and exterior bulbs with LED's. What a difference!
You can repair the plastic on the console. Use something along the line...
For reference , you can't tell just looking that my slicks are on 16s, look just like 15s.
But if you do go to 17s, make sure you get enough sidewall height so they look right. (Suv 17s have plenty of height, don't look like rubber band tires)
I've got a pair of sixteens on my 62..... cause I found new 16" slicks cheap.
But I agree with ALL the above that say either 15s or 17s. It's All about tire selection. I had to special order the 16s for my Z28 camaro, but only cause I wasn't ready to go to 17s or 18s at the moment.
I'm sure...
Console appears to be 1967 or newer, because it is one piece. The 1966 consoles were two piece, with the rear segment being a bolt-on unit. This allowed the base console to be also be used in Chargers, by bolting on the long rear console piece.
My grandfather got immediate, effective protection. Nobody considering stealing from him after they saw the logo of the “detective agency” on his storefront.
I already have an external regulator on my current alternator and will probably keep it for the new one as well. Will check with tuff stuff if these will fit my setup:
130 Amp
130 Amp Chrysler Alternator #9509DP - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories
100 Amp
Chrysler Alternator #8509DP - TUFF...