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I've got a set if your interested.

As I write this, there's a TKX being installed behind the 426 wedge.

My next step was to attach the flywheel / clutch assembly to the engine. No problems installing the flywheel, but the clutch was another story. To back up a bit, in the SST supplied instruction material, they make reference to the following - MAA-05000 clutch installation instructions A search...

So, I'm pretty sure I've got the pedal thing sorted out. I have at least 30 hours invested in this, probably more. I've been in and out from under the dash countless times. I've spent way to much time on this. SST's literature on this says it's a no hassle "perfect fit" install. It's not so far...

I'm installing the above that has a .75 inch bore and a 1.4 inch stroke. What is the minimum amount of stroke of this cylinder in order to disengage the clutch? Would 1 inch be sufficient or do I need to use the complete 1.4 inch stroke of the cylinder. I'm using an internal hydraulic release...

Alright, I need some schooling on pedal ratios. I understand the basic math. Pedal pivot to pedal, divided by clutch pivot point. Easy enough, but I'm not sure which clutch pivot point to use. Below is a pic of my clutch pedal. The stock clutch connection is at "A". So my question is do I use...

I think this may be a good option for others contemplating this 5 speed install. I would have considered it if I was not already deep into what I have and components received from SST.

I used SST supplied dowels - identical to RobbMc. The price however, is a lot more expensive for the SST dowels. $79 at SST and $39 at RobbMc. I have been dealing with SST with pedal / clutch master cylinder connection issues and they were shipping me an updated item so I asked them to slip in a...

I received my offset dowels (.007) this week and installed them. First crack on the dial indicator read .005 TIR - so .0025 total run out. I know that I'm within required specs (.005), and I'm at .0025, but I may try to get the numbers closer to zero if I can. There are members who have...

Currently, I have a 741 case (3.55 w / cone style LSD) and a 742 case (3.23 w / clutch style LSD). Both have small yoke. I do have a 3.55 gear set for the 742, which I would have to swap to use with current trans setup.

I'll be having a new driveshaft made for my TKX conversion. The yoke on my diff is currently a 7260 small yoke. Engine is a 426W in the range of 450 hp / 450 torque. 64 Dodge is the car. Is there a good reason to upgrade to a 7290 or 1310 yoke or will the 7260 handle what I have. Thanks, Charlie.

Gents, all good now - it came off with a LOT of heat. Thanks to all. Coffee time!

I'm installing a different pan / pickup, thus the reason to remove existing.

I'm applying heat on the block where tube threads into it.

Heat is not working. I'm just bending the tube. Don'y want to damage threads in block. How much heat is safe?

Off to the shop now to give it a go!

Yes for sure, I guess I'm trying to show that perhaps there is some kind of sealant at the threads making removal difficult.

Here is a photo.

Changing the pan and pickup on my 426W. Pan is off but the pickup seems very tight in its threads. I put a pipe wrench on the tube and applied lite pressure. It's not turning. Any advice? How tight are they supposed to be? Looks like there is some sort of sealer maybe on the threads. This engine...

My 426W was originally a 413 industrial - bored .060 with lots of meat left.