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I'm surprised the pistol grip portion isn't 3D printed these days pistol grip pistol grip #2

Going, from upstate NY.

If it's the applicator type I am thinking of, the edge may be too thick to get under the paint. Either way, the most important thing is to use a plastic utensil so as not to scratch it.

Some later model carbs. had set screws to limit the mixture screw adjustment. I would remove the plug above the screw and see if there is a set screw or something to limit the removal of the mixture screw. I had to do this on a later model AFB.

The Edelbrock doesn't have a removable base, so...one less gasket.

Seems to me that Sox and Martin did extremely well with an Inland. If it was good enough for them, I guess I will use ours. I will keep the Hurst shifter that was in the car when we bought it.

If you have a stock pan check this spot at the front. Some original pans have a weak area that flexes causing a slow leak. I have good results with a flat bar bolted to the pan.

I guess? Well, one thing is for sure - the Holleys I've seen the last few years have experienced quite the slide in quality, so maybe Edelbrock sees an oppotunity there.

Well, damn. I was trying to find a pic of "woman over 40 in ripped jeans". It's getting harder and harder to find pics of real women on the internet. ...in just the past 2 months or so! ...especially that's not a kardashian.

I remember it. It was sort of their version of the Carters' benefits, as much as trademarks would allow (the top coming off part). Didn't stick around very long as I recall though.

My ‘68 drove me nuts with a leak I couldn’t find. I replaced pan gasket, dip stick o-ring, front seal, shifter seal. Still leaked, mostly when cold. I finally figured out the Bakelite in the neutral safety switch ( old style-single threaded stud) had shrunk over the years and would leak when...

Sport hoods do wonders for cars originally equipped with flat hoods-

That's probably what I would do. As far as the OP's question they did come factory with a bulge hood and again many will not notice the vents plus who cares if they did. I have a mint 72 Decklid on my '74 RR just because I could not find a nice 73-4 decklid when it went in for paint. Do I care...

If I have to remove a hood I like to drill 1/8" guide holes to make alignment easier.

Use the hood.... It's your car, do what you like.. and pretty much no one will ever know it doesn't belong.. and it doesn't matter if they do. :)

I don't think they are different.... This is the one i used in my '62 which has the original trans with a LA 318... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Q7A3L4?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I usually pull the hood by myself. I put moving blankets on both fenders, plywood on top of that to protect the fenders and windshield and hook the engine hoist to the hood catch using a fan belt. Undo the bolts and swing the hood around. Work carefully but it is easier to do than explain.

My buddy has a '71 Charger that was plain vanilla originally. He added the bulge hood, R/T doors and Go Wing before having it freshly painted. It looks much better than the plain vanilla body style. Who gives a crap if it's not original anymore? :lol:

I hate my F150. The first thing that went wrong was some small motor involved in the HVAC. For some retarded reason when the truck starts every motor that controls a flap goes through a cycle and resets. And it does this continually while on. If one of the flaps somehow slips off the track or...

Big improvement. I would do the same. I like the Mirada wheels as well.