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Back in 1970 I took my 64 Plymouth 383/330 TF to the drag strip. No one else was in my class and my first race a 66/67 Charger pulled up next to me at lights. I thought this might be fun and then I spotted the 426 emblems and my heart jumped into my throat and now I thought this is going to be...

I haven’t mounted the asbestos shoes on my GTX yet as I got wrapped up in a project on another car first. Hope to swap them out before spring. Pretty sure after pulling the drums on my 66 that the GTX linings got crystallized from excessive brake drag/heat early on. They just look hard and...

The 440 really brings on the torque down low however. I have both and I think my 440 TF would be all over my Hemi 4 speed up to 30-40 mph +/-, both stock with 3.54/3.55 gears. My 440 does have a slightly looser than stock converter though.

OK - that looks good. I was misinterpreting the picture.

Here is one a little better but the carpet is already on it.

There is something kind of odd about what I’m seeing here. This hump on yours seems like a solid piece of the console body. On my car the hump out is a piece of treated cardboard-like material and it screws to the plastic console body, but does not extend all the way to the top. Until...

I think I have a tiny bit more room but not much. Kind of a. dark picture.

Looks like my 67. Never seen those long heater hose nipples before. Might be correct - not. sure.

Thanks. What is the effect on normal clutch pedal effort and motion (variation in effort with travel, hitch/over-center points, etc)?

Anyone got a go-by on removal. I’ve spent too much time under my dash lately replacing the master cylinder and pulling/replacing the steering column.

I’ve heard it said a number of times that the under dash spring should be removed if using a diaphragm clutch, but I’m not sure what this accomplishes unless it removes the hitch or over-center point near the top of pedal travel? I don’t really need a lighter pedal if that’s the only purpose...

In college I had a 70 GTO that had one of the easiest shifting gearboxes I ever experienced. I think the first owner (a women) somehow wore it in. I lived about 3 miles off campus and had some neighborhoods and stop lights on the way. One day I bet myself that I could make it all the way home...

My 66 has a hitch (over center reaction) about an inch from the upper pedal stop. If I adjust for more free play at top, the pedal stops returning on that hitch point and doesn’t pop all the way up. I can stick my toe under the pedal and give it a slight nudge over the hitch point and it pops...

Actually on a downshift the synchro friction is having to drag up in revs, the engine mass through the input, to match the gearbox/driveline speed. And in effect it drags down the car speed some too. Not speed up the drivetrain which I incorrectly said above. Too anxious to get to the Super...

If you make no effort at rev matching or slowing down on a downshift the synchro will have to do more work and require a little more shift effort (for synchro ring friction) to speed up the gear train so the slider teeth, synchro teeth and gear engagement teeth can all be synchronized and the...

Most times a coil initially starts acting up when it gets hot but works OK after the engine cools off. If it won’t start cold I would speculate it’s not the coil. Is there gas inside the carb bores? If dry I would suspect ignition but really need to do some general checks like WileE said. If...

That is kind of a mystery because most of the reduced head size, 3/8” bolts have a 3/8” or 7/16” hex head. A 1/2” hex head 3/8” bolt is pretty rare. Looks bigger than a 7/16 head in the hole but could be??

Not saying you are incorrect Wayne but it would be a heck of a coincidence to have all 3 of them broken off down at the stud. I think it’s just rust and crud and a fuzzy picture concealing the flats of the head. Pretty sure it’s not a 9/16” hex head though. I could be wrong on the rest though.

I kind of doubt it’s a 9/16” bolt head if the hole is .64” +/-. Looks more like a 1/2” head to me - possibly a header bolt as suggested. A 1/2” hex head is .577” +/- across opposing hex points. I would soak it in penetrating oil and grind down a 1/2” socket to fit and see if it will engage...

I wonder what it was like when the pilot fired the 6 - 50 caliber MGs, all grouped inches away from him and the cockpit?