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Curious as to how a guy makes sure all the moisture, be it regular water, or salt water, gets out of all the overlapping metal joints on a car like this so it doesn't rust out? Strip it down to a bare shell and bake it in a paint booth?
Another decent rocker setup that isn't terribly priced are the Mancini aluminum made by Harland Sharpe. They don't have needle bearings like the more expense HS's. I also think your power estimate is on the light side. I would guess a solid 550 hp and ft.lbs.
I may be wrong, but could the TX9 you are referring to be for the interior? Then the "T" would stand for Taxi trim grade. At least that is what it show for 69-71 cars in my white book.
Since Moog went to hell a few years ago, I switched to Proforged stuff, and knock on wood, it has been good. That said, if Craig can get you some USA made pieces, I would go that route.
Hate to be a Debbie Downer, but I would say you pressed them in opposite from what you want. I always install them like in the pic Vaanth posted. Front of the arm comes out and the rear goes in.
Someone spray bombed the engine bay black instead of using the correct body color. No big deal to some, but that would drive me nuts. Why would you replace the cam if it is running good?
I have bought 3 1969 steering wheels from Mega Parts in the past. I see Jamie doesn't have them listed anymore, but am pretty certain he was getting them from PG Classics. They fit and look fine. Only issue I had with them is that the steel underneath the plastic on the last one I got had a lot...
This was my first thought when looking at the pics this morning as well. No stamping and the tag is immaculate. Hopefully it is not a misrepresented repop tag, but that is way over my pay grade to weigh in on.