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Those heads seem like a bottle neck to me unless they have had a big valve and port job. Car has to go on a diet, Get some gearing under it. Jmho.

Pretty sure they all use a round cross-section o-ring but that’s just my observation of rebuilding the similar Federal pump. An o-ring that has been in there a long time and got hard will look almost rectangular when removed.

Yeah, I agree the controls aren't the most intuitive I have ever used. But the system tells you pretty quick once it's on!

Nice find

A good one like that is in South Carolina, my family are there. It goes like this, if the person wants something you have in your hand they’ll say “let me hold that”. Confused me for a bit. If you want to see the English language destroyed watch reruns of Hard Core Pawn, ghetto talk.

Perfect

Very nice!!

Looks like a cut line mark. If you turn the drag link around. Will it fit? Or are the bends facing rearward already? Doug

There is a thread repair fitting out there or you could buy the fitting that has logger threads I had to do that on the Carburetor once.

They are a goofey thread pitch to boot. 5/8"x 20, not the standard UNF 5/8"x 18. Doug

My pal Irving. Adult and puppy.

They just confirmed those are the correct ones, thanks Wayne!

The aluminum i used is 1/8 thick. I did do a lot of planning, when it came to the heat problem. ( I knew it would be brought up ) The design basically allows the module to " float " . The large venting I feel should allow any trapped heat to easy escape? The material itself that the mount is...

If you are using a later style valve body wit a 3 pin switch. The center pin goes to the ground pin on the relay to allow crank in N & P only. The 2 outer pins are for reverse lights. One is key on power, the other goes to the lights. In your case the factory revese wiring is at the shifter. So...

Looking OEM/NOS metal clips. I need 22 but would need a few extra's as a just in case. Based on my research the repops are problematic. Thanks in advance!

Since it's out of the car, rent a mag drill and set the depth. I've done this before. It is much more difficult once it's in the car. Edit: Oops, didn't see the post about the mag drill earlier.

Do these questions help pin down the actual pump I have? Do any of the pumps used in ‘66 have a reservoir to pump seal that is flat on each side vs “o-ring” round shape? The reservoir seal groove shape in the pump housing I have is also rectangular not circular?

Sold, thanks to FBBO & 71Charger