Search results for query: no oil pressure

Here's a rebuild kit with both springs and everything else to rebuild a standard volume pump, kinda pricey though. I'm a fan of high volume/standard pressure pumps. If you've ever primed an engine, a high pressure pump will ask a lot of your drill. Plus no risk of snapping an intermediate shaft...

How screwed am I? Should I pull the engine right away or just the head? I am certain I caught this right away, it couldn't have run more than 45 seconds with coolant in the oil but that's long enough for it to circulate and get in all my nice new bearings. Experience only here please is a flush...

B Better too much oil pressure than not.....oil pressure is cheaper than bearing replacement. The GTX HIGH VOLUME PUMP AND 10W-30 MOBIL1: Cold=80 psi; hot @1200rpm=60 psi; hot @ 4000rpm=75 psi. Zero wear on distributor bushing or gear. BOB RENTON

Isn't the ICE32 a propane derived refrigerant?.....or a combination of several flammable gases? These gases are flammable where as the original R12 and R134A are not. What are the operating pressures and expected evaporator temperature, what is the condenser pressure, what oil is used, is...

No, my bad. I was thinking of another lifter thread. Also I believe you're right , you should have more pressure. Take the pump off and check it out

Only 1, a Ford 302 in a 1970 Falcon. Oil pump seized on my way to high school. Drove it to school and back with no oil pressure, about 35 miles roundtrip. It was getting sluggish, but still running when I pulled back in the driveway. All the bearings were trashed and the motor was full of...

Ok, strange experience yesterday and would like to share to see what this group thinks. About the car/engine: It's a 400ci in a '67 Coronet 440. Engine oil was a little on the old side. Oil pres. gage working and tested. I know nothing about the engine/car, just purchased about 3 weeks ago...

Oil pressure is very simple. It's flow volume minus internal leaks minus viscosity. At idle the volume can not be increased by a stiffer spring or shimming the spring unless the by pass is open at idle. Which is not the case at 20psi. The internal leaks can't be changed at this point w/o engine...

Doug, This is a great explanation. Simplified and easy to understand. Thanks for this.

The low oil pressure switch is a great way to help prevent engine damage. No/low oil pressure, no fuel.

To add a bit about startup: With a flat tappet cam, I would use old, weak springs for break it. Yes, it might seem like a pain to have to change them after break in, but no where near as much of a pain as it is to fix a wiped cam. Even 300# open spring pressure is too much for break in. An...

I think this may all stem from a possible problem at the bulkhead or fusible link as I just lost power to the oil pressure idiot light... With key on it no longer illuminates.

All fluids that have been opened has a life. All engine and transmission seals are designed to be run warm and with clean fluid to keep them supple and sealing. Old oil contaminates turn sludgy, The main seals get hard and leak, Transmission seals no longer seal. Hoses and belts harden and lose...

Hello! I have been trying to diagnose this noise before embarking on removing the lifters. Link to Video open to all recommendations or ideas before I start pulling lifters/ deeper disassembly. This is my first old school engine, so take it easy on me. Symptoms: 1. First time I noticed this...

i did a leak down. It was the same as other cylinders. I'm going to pull a valve spring off and look at the seal I want to check the spring pressure too I never did when I bought the heads and forget what they were if they told me. then check the intake gasket. if the oil ring is bad would the...

Before I start, yes, I read all related threads and yes, I should just take off the valve covers and evaluate. Until I can do that, this is bugging me and I’m inquiring to see if there is something obvious I could be missing—> I noticed a lifter tick upon taking an off ramp (right turn) at a...

I don't think it has a bad bearing or a missing oil galley plug. I think the oil pump you put on would work perfect if it was bolted to a new engine. But it's bolted to an engine that I'm sure has massive oil demands. I think the engine new had .0015"-.002" main and rod clearances. My guess is...

So …… it’s a race motor in a street car! OK , I get it ! How much have you won ? Have you contacted T&D Machine OR Jessel? Get some BILLET STEEL Rockers & THEN Sidestep the clutch at 9 grand & not worry ! Try it sometime! But eat your Wheaties b4 U Doo….. Mopar2ya!

I purchased 1966 Coronet 318/727 2025-01-16, original 318 poly replaced with later 1970 318 LA 29K miles since built. Aftermarket cam, specs unknown, no lope. Vacuum at 1000 rpm is 12 inches, not steady. Increases to 17 inches steady at 1800 rpm. Replaced all hoses and rubber plugs. No change in...

DP's can give nice fuel mileage on the highway/autobahn. In town however, they do not pull good mpg numbers. Got to have a steady foot though no matter and they ain't too bad in town if you anticipate traffic stops etc. And wouldn't a high volume high pressure oil pump help in this situation...