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BTW.. rust free means a lot though.. that was my first car.. just figure out how nice you want it to be in the end... do the math and then double the number you come up with

2-5k depending how clean the underside is, and how much you love it.. Don't forget that **** like that grille is going to cost some decent money.. even if the motor is good you will dump 10k just to get it driving without paint or anything like that. P.S. you will learn that every motor "Ran...

you can use the flat tappet cam, you use AMC lifters which oil through the pushrods

https://www.doctordiff.com/62-70-adjustable-master-cylinder-push-rod.html Get the smaller bore Master cyl... i went through 3 so far and am still not too happy but the 15/16 is the best yet.. You can also email drdiff and tell him what you wanna do.. he's great to deal with

https://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html And the plate on the engine side of the firewall? that unbolts.. not sure bout power vs. manual.. my car started as a manual. Also make sure the brake pedal arm has the pushrod in the top hole or you won't have the proper ratio and...

I use Trickflows on my 318.. they work well but you will end up around $2900 by the time you get rockers and pushrods and such..

yup.... wasn't using the money for anything anyway :) I did quick math on what my new bottom end is gonna cost last night.... i coulda used a stock 400 with good heads and made the same power and saved like 5k :)

I have a thick stack of receipts.... i don't add them up.. i have at least 10k into a car worth 10k... that i paid 10k for to start with....

Kern, did you get a new dist drive?

That is a pretty cam... When i called howards they told me mine is billet...but it sure looks cast :)

Nice Kern, that's a tiny bit bigger than my 318 cam :)

DOH! sorry.. my brain read that as 1991 for some reason.. long day..

It's all just details.. get a book and read it a couple of times... there are things people miss.. like valve reliefs on the wrong sides, rear seal backwards... just tons of stuff. take your time and triple check everything.

408 doesn't make it any different to put together... same as a 273 pretty much

Not even joking.. transmission is easier once you do one... take it apart and check/replace stuff that's worn out.. put back together and check endplay/adjustments... I did my first one with just a exploded view... the book i have now is all step by step directions

I haven't myself.. but i would 100% read it if i were you.. i just haven't cause i don't have it and i have had a lot of old mopars so i learned a lot by mistakes :) that's supposed to be a really good book though. Also get the transmission book for when you do yours.... trans is actually...

yup both sides... the oil goes through the cam, up those holes and into the rocker shafts and oils everything up

it's inside the intake valley right where i showed.. above where the dist gear goes.. it's a metal plug just like on the front/rear of the block

Also.. This hole oils your rockers/top end.... take a flash light and make sure the hole goes through the cam bearing... oil goes to the cam then to the top end... places are amazing at not lining it up.. check both sides... Also... Take your old cam if you have it and GENTLY put it in before...

It's there.... and you can see why it would suck if you forget it :)