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As I said before. I agree the wiring harness is the same. Try using a 2 speed wiper switch with a 3 speed motor. There is a reason they have different part numbers.

Those hoods are long and heavy. Fifty years of opening and closing plus jiggling around on the road takes it's toll. There are those that will tell you to just adjust them but the truth is the rivets have worn the holes larger making them sloppy causing the rear of the hood to pop up. Sure you...

I have never owned an A body but I know on a B and E body, the two speed switch has 6 terminals and the three speed switch has 7 terminals. They have different part numbers as well. I only know this from doing swaps from 2 speed wipers to 3 speed wipers. I remember the 7th wire being present in...

I agree with going for the Borgeson steering gear since you already have the Borgeson pump. I have heard the Borgeson pump needs to have the pressure toned down a bit if using with a stock steering gear. It will work perfectly with the Borgeson gear.

As I mentioned in post #8, E body cars had an extra wire for 3 speed wipers. That was me talking from experience.

You mentioned the extra wire was near your wiper switch connector. I remember E body wiring harnesses had an extra wire that was un-used for a 2 speed wiper but was needed for the 3 speed wiper. Could that be what it is?

Too bad that hole didn't get noticed and fixed before painting.

The outer hole looks factory to me. Inner one,........no. If you insist on keeping it you will have to trace that three wire switch wiring to where it went. You will not find a factory diagram showing it. The factory wiring used the one with the yellow wire only.

Car manufacturers design components that work for the cars and trucks they build. Then along comes the shade tree mechanic (us) thinking we need to fix what is already working. I have to include me as I had to go through the learning curve myself. I decided my 440 would look so much better with...

If you purchase the booster, backing plate and knuckle, The knuckle assembly gets mounted on your brake existing brake pedal. that is all that needs to go under your dash. You can then do your disc swap when ever you want. Circled in the pic is the part you need to install under the dash. You...

I vote for the factory set-up. Mopar engineers did all the research for you. Brakes are way too important for trial and error. Get the proper dual 8" diaphragm unit and factory style master for disc / drums. Your life may depend on it.

Absolutely would be a no-no to use a wire nut on any automotive wiring. They should be cleaned & twisted together and soldered. Then taped. No wire nuts allowed unless you plan on burning your car down.

I know you said you don't care but just to let you know what happens with the flexible rubber brake hoses is they have something like 1/32nd orifice in them. After time, they collapse and block the flow. Normally, when they collapse, they will let fluid go through when you step on the brake...

Mega Parts calls them "lower lock side door channel seals" 68-70. $35.00 for the pair.

I didn't use a box. I don't have a heat problem under the hood so pretty happy with this set-up. It has been there since 2015 with zero issues.

I wanted mine to look stock for the most part. I am running 15 X 8 Magnum 500's on the rear with 275/60's and 15 X 7 Magnum 500's with 225/70's on the front.

Sounds logical to me. Nothing was in that location on my 6.1 and it was not used. Nice job on your build by the way. What dip stick are you using? I like that way better than the Bouchillon unit they sent me back in 2014.

Good tip! Wish I would have thought of that when I did mine. I laid it out in the hot sun all day when I could have been installing it.

I agree totally. 10 Volts is dead in every battery I tested.

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