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I live where my summers are 125°+. I run a Flowkooler in a 496" stroker w a/c. Obviously water pump is only part of the equation, but it flows very well and when I had a 160° t-stat, it flowed enough at low rpm to keep engine below 180° w a/c going. 4yrs with it now and no leaks or issues. I...

Are you looking for ease, sorta original, etc... I ran my 4bbl Fitech the same route as a factory fuel pump. My return out the back by bell housing and along feed line back to tank. I used 3/8 factory style steel line for feed w AN fittings at the ends for connection to tank and Throttle body.

The oil slinger was installed correctly. That is what happens to a lot of them w certain double row timing chains, not from a grinder. Leaves lots of metal in oil obviously. I removed my slinger as it doesn't make any difference.

Where it says "spacer" if inches, direct drive, otherwise listing type of fan clutch used.

You stated "new" rear main. Chances are good it's the rear main. The seal itself is probably not bad, but the procedure used in installing the seal and cap is what causes leaks.

Spring is not necessary. Before test running car w adjustments you've made, get a pressure tester from auto parts store (loaner tool) and check system hold pressure at 16psi. Then drive car. If it burps a little, let it cool n then drive again and check temps. 215° is "not" overheating. After...

A quick word on recovery tanks. The open system recovery tank was put on "in-case" a car puked, to keep it off the streets. The closed system was to keep a higher pressure, higher boiling point, this caused more fluid expansion and it needed someplace to go, then needed to get returned to...

All things mentioned are pretty much correct. It doesn't sound like your system is running bad at all. I live where it's 125° in the summer and had to really research to make sure my 496" w a/c didn't overheat. Fill 50/50 mix "distilled" water n antifreeze to 1" below radiator fill opening. At...

New tank and 3" TTI exhaust on my '67 Coronet. Had same issue. Bent large corners, and made some steel plates to move tailpipe hangers further outboard.

Yep... my relay was intermittent for awhile. Sometimes started w key n sometimes screwdriver jump until one day it was always screwdriver.

My 383/496 w Fitech n yadda yadda yadda likes 17° idle, less exhaust smell and idles cooler. Max timing will depend on fuel octane, compression, intake valve closing etc... run it, if it detonate, back it down. Otherwise go to a dyno.

I love B bodies more than pretty much any other cars. But when people start saying "A12" "N96" etc... all I think about is BINGO. That's all Greek to me. Always been a "driver" never a collector. And if the car I bought from the dealership didn't have what I wanted, I modified it. Even my '89...

It's all personal preference. Also budget, do you want to daily it, show it, weekend cars n coffee, make a profit, pass it down etc..... my '67 was my great grandmother's car. I wanted it from the 1st time I drove it. Then my grandmother got it and then gave it to me when I was 30. Had it 28yrs...

My bronze gear w about 5k miles had very sharp knife edge and always a glittery bronze in the oil. Changed to a Melonized gear, but also changed cam at same time. I recall something about not going from bronze to Melonized w/out making sure cam gear had absolutely no bronze embedded in it.

Check oil slinger. Had to remove mine on my double roller chain. It was barely hitting the rivets on the chain. Never had leaks after removing.

Check each boot at the header. Decide if you need straight, 45° or 90°. Then order each of what you need in Taylor Ceramic boots. Spend a little money on the proper tool, and do them yourself. The ceramics won't give you any issue.

A quick note on plug wires, I had very close wires, plug boots did not help, still burned/melted. I changed all out to Taylor ceramic boots, no issue at all now. Just take your time on cutting and installing.

Which timing are you referring? Idle/initial, mechanical advance, all in. Timing used to be higher at idle and then emissions came along and it was changed to much lower. The lower timing at idle causes the engine to run hotter, to help burn off harmful pollutants.

I fooled around w a bit of brazing in my past. That said, I'm lucky that less than 1/8th mile from my house is a hose shop. Had all my a/c n p/s n brake lines done there, very reasonable. Brazing works though if done properly obviously.

The old dash ignition switches in these cars is so easy to start w a thin pocket knife. Anything I'm at a large shopping center, casino, etc.... I use my ignition lock.