Search results for query: *

No!!!! He needs to move down. Simple geometry. Further out you move, the longer the stroke. Please proofread before making suggestions. This would only cause more problems.

Go to about the 2 min mark in this video n watch.

You initially replaced a wire n plugs. Have you verified since then which cylinders are dropping? A spay bottle on the header at each exhaust port or a digital temp gun. Verify if cylinders are running cooler. Is it the same ones each time?

Connect Pos/Neg. The gauge will go through its normal calibration cycle regardless of whether or not the O2 sensor is connected. If it's doesn't read w straight pos/Neg connection, I'd say gauge is bad.

Because there are people who cannot afford a tank. Or so they think. When you really look at the cost of a Tanks Inc tank w/pump, and a single line up to TBI, it's not that expensive. But people see the 1st low price when they make their decision and then have to spend more afterwards. Fitech...

Not on a '69. I did an in-tank on my '67 Coronet. I used 2 3/8" factory lines. Used 3/8" tubing to -6AN fittings at the ends where necessary to attach to tank bulkhead and to F.I. throttle body. For that last little bit, I used -6 PTFE braided line w AN fittings. PTFE will not rot from fuel or...

I run the T6 Rotella in my '08 Kawasaki Concours 1400, up to 10,500 rpm. Have for 16yrs, 75k miles. No issues yet.

Here's a Carter for carbureted engines. Not sure of volume, but self regulated to 7.5 psi. I ran these on stock jet boats w 454's. Super quiet...

Manual says 1" below bottom of filler hole. I fill to there, "if" it pukes a little, then it was a touch high. I run flowkooler, aluminum radiator in 496" in 125° weather w a/c. By filling 1" below opening, I've never had an issue.

I run a Walbro 225lph high pressure inline pump on my Turbo Jet boat. Engine is exposed, no cover. Same pump for over 10yrs. Before I start engine, while turning on pump, I can barely hear it. Obviously going to need a return line and regulator.

Crisco

I would have to disagree w above statement that you are too early to be concerned w cam choice. My "opinion" is cam choice 1st, what is your intended desire. Cams operate in certain rpm ranges, require certain compression ratios, require certain lift clearances, springs, gear ratios, torque...

I had a '74 Mercury Cougar XR7, 351 Cleveland w FMX 3 speed automatic. It was a 4,200lb car. I invested a few grand easily and 4 yrs trying to make a "brick" daily driver (only car) go fast. It never did. I don't know the weight of a '75 Fury, but I'd bet it's heavy and you will always get...

Not sure about your car, my '67 rear window was done 1 piece. It took the installer some time to get it right. Laid out piece on outside rear windshield, used heat gun to form it to curves, then installed inside. Did a great job.

Here's my '67, limo all the way. 125° summers. Gotta roll front windows down to back up or sharp left turns in the dark.

Before you do any vacuum or charging, change our the condenser for a parallel flow one designed for 134. Will make a difference.

This is how I did mine after block n heads were decked Hermetically Sealed: How To Check Intake Manifold Seal

Pretty sure I read a post on here a few yrs ago of someone detailing that very thing. Search bar. I had mine done when I had my gauges refurbished.

Big block not that bad. Jack car up n put on stands. Disconnect one side of center link n swing out of the way. Unbolt pan n if I remember correctly, drops right out.

Here's my "map" for my Progression Distributor. It "ran" good until I broke a pushrod Oct '22. Hoping to have back on the road this summer.