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I go to Vegas every few months to gamble, see shows and the variety of restaurants. If you want experience the Vegas that is portrayed in movies and the like "to have the full experience, so we are staying on the strip," I recommend a central location and just walk, as driving and parking on...
Trade my 440 pistons for your 440 pistons I've never been able to make a trade on this site, but I'll give it one more shot.
Have unused 440 + .030 H dome Diamond pistons with around 1.85" comp ht and Chevy pin. Also have lightly used 440 + .060 F top JE SRP with around 2.06 comp ht and...
I think he knows he needs to have the journals ground. Probably has some rust on the counterweights like I had on some old Hemi cranks that were sitting for years.
I have sand blasted cranks before and some come from the manufacture shot peened, which is about as bad as sand as there is always some fine peen dust for a contaminant. Just wash and blow the hell out it before assembly. I have hot tanked and then washed components up to three times before...
I looked at a '69 manual regarding rod and piston assembly, the oil holes do not appear to be mentioned, but the rod big end rod chamfer orientation is covered and that assures the oil holes are also in the right place.
The oil holes are probably not totally essential, as I have some...
So for clarity, you put tape on the crank journals to somewhat protect them?
As for the rod oil holes, your red dots are likely the oil holes, but at least one of the rods would have to be installed the other way so that both oil holes point to the center where the cam is located. Take a look...
Check near the cap to main rod body parting line carefully for the pair ID marks. I've never seen factory rods without some sort of pair marks.
Also notice that the rod bore has larger chamfers on the side that goes toward the crank throw as opposed to the rod sides that go against each...
Ya Pat bought a '63 new and raced it while he was still in the Coast Guard, after he got out, he started building TFs. Been doing them for over 55 years, I met him about 45 years ago, though I was a 4spd racer.
Through the years I had him do some street car TFs for me, and now in our later...
Buying because you have the dough, you like it, and just want to drive it, no tag required. Buying because you are a "collector" or investor, it needs all the documentation.
Though not an expert on this subject, as I rely on Pat Blais, and he has said that the post '70 VBs are the preferred upgrade on street applications for all Torqueflites.
Well if your trans is the right year for your application, and is likely so if it has the two shifter mounts on the tail housing, (check the stamped trans ID number if you're not sure), it takes the later style wide slot synchros.
Have some left over core parts from a 47 RE trans that were in a '99 Diesel truck trans. 47RE core valve body, small inlet, early sensor, believe '94-'99 applications, but you judge by pics. $125 shipping included to contiguous US states, also have some other 47RE stuff if you need it, PM me if...
My back is not too good either, one of the reasons I retired a few years ago. For you, I would think you need to decide if you are more interested in working on a project, or driving a car. If it's working on a car mostly, then as suggested above, a lift, and I like those hydraulic lift carts...
For street, and keeping the stock converter? If so, an inexpensive Transgo shift kit and good quality master rebuild kit will make a notable seat of the pants improvement with no significant hard part changes. Easily good for 450 hp or so.