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I think these will qualify as collapsed I think. The game has been broken in for quite some time. The engine probably has 200 hours. I think I'm just going to have to pull off the intake and take a better inspection. I can see down down past the area in the head with a flashlight to see the...

Adjustable

Thank you to all of you that have responded! Super helpful. To elaborate what I mean by broken is they're extremely soft. Feel like they may be pumping up but inconsistently. The faces on the lifters in the cam looks great. These are the pro Magnum from comp cam so they typically don't have a...

Buddy has a 440 with baic flat hydraulic cam, 241/245 @50, .525 lift. Four lifters went bad/broke... So, what is best advice / option... *Replace just the bad ones *Replace all of them *Rebuild the broken ones (replace guts, keep body) *Other Thx

Race block... What is the R5 for on this block?

If you don't mind... what fans are you running? Basically, what diameter and CFM rating are they? IMHO - they aren't too close... mine are very close (closer actually) as well and the air is moving well. Usually, it's the size and/or CFM that will make for not enough pull... or there's...

@Don Frelier Wait... he slanders me without provocation, I respond in kind using the exact same words... and I'm called out for harshness? Amazing. I've been nothing but grateful and very polite to all here. Feel free to review all my posts. And I've tried to help where I can. Clearly, I'm in...

wow... you don't know me or what I'm working on. so you don't know ****.

I need help finding a new alternator with more amp production. Based on all the fans and various electrical components, i need a min 160 amp alternator and would prefer something north of 200. Can anyone please point me in the right direction to who makes such an animal? I can't find anything...

Just as a side note, technically speaking, I do not believe you don't need to worry about heatsink as much as you do with a carb... simply because there is very, very little fuel being housed in the sniper. if you're using a return line, then you have cool fuel running constantly at 59 psi...

This is super helpful! And explains what I was trying to understand. The only lingering "concern" is around the point of failure. Specifically, the "melting" part. What we're basically saying is that over a time period the link will fail... but until it actually fails it will get hot and...

Yeah... that's the trick. I'm completely rewiring from scratch and not seeking a stock approach. Completely different charging system, ignition, fuel, etc.... and not a fan of fusible link.... number one being there's really no roadside repair.

Now in the rewiring stage with the 72 Charger. I'm not trying to restore to original... this is going to be a run around town and race every now and again. Anyway, someone cut the fusible link and was going to replace with a fuse. To that end, what is the amp rating on the original fusible link?

Cool.... not sure anyone has asked to see pics before. This proves I need more and better pictures :) This engine pics are dated. Completely redid the wiring and cooling system. And new headers.

So, you guys got me hooked up :) and I have all the numbers now... :) First row... A6, B4, P6 Middle row... AB41, C5, R1 Bottom... 128 (Jan 28, and assuming 1966), XP26, P4W, EE1, W, W

Go figure! I didn't know that. Thanks!

Nice! You nailed it... tt has all those things and that color. Man, I wish I could make out the rest of it. Thanks!

So, this is hard to read and I'm seeing things I personally haven't seen before (like the alphabet across the top and middle?), but I'm certain someone here knows exactly what all this could be and what it means. It's on a 66 Charger.

So, I have a 72 Charger project and this has been a lifesaver and helped me solve countless issues. https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/wiringdiagrams/1972Wiring.zip General info here too... Wiring and Electrical – MyMopar

US Body did a great job for me... highly recommended. https://usbody.com/shop/fiberglass/hood/