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is there a special way to drain the compressor oil or do I just turn it upside down for a day?

did u have to do anything with the compressor to convert it?

the hoses leak im pretty sure (won't hold vaccum). plus they are the originals so I assume they have dry rotted. should I just fill in with 134 with a dye and see where it leaks?

im currently trying to convert my rv2 system to newer freon. I need new hoses and it seems like nowhere makes them for 73-74 satellites. how would I go about making my own and what else do I need to account for when converting to modern refrigerant. I have a new dryer/evap coil, new o rings, new...

thanks, sounds like I either get a date coded 340 or big block swap it

Can someone explain what numbers matching on an engine means and how do I decode it? I have a 72 rally 340 challenger and am trying to figure out if I just need a 72 340 block or do I have to find the specific engine that is probably long gone to make it numbers matching. Thanks for the help!

Turns out i had the torsion bars clocked wrong, ride height is all good now. Dumb mistake but ill learn for the next time.

Currently looking to redo the front bench seat in my satellite. The only white bench seat cover i've found is for a 1971-72 satellite. Can anyone educate me on if there are any differences with the bench seats of 71-74 b body satellites.

All bushings have been replaced with poly bushings, torsion bars are the only thing thats not new

Unfortunately the suspension is already apart or i would have posted some.

My 1974 satellite has its original torsion bars (small block v8) and i am wondering if they droop over time and lower the ride height (and not by messing with the adjuster bolts) I have scraping issues and am changing my hooker headers for some dougs d-453-b headers but i want to know if i...

Dont have ride hight bc i already popped the tbars out. Stock suspension besides moroematic shocks and poly bushings. Wheels and tires are 245/r15 65 and 275/15 65

I have a 1974 satellite 318 with hooker headers and a 3 inch exhaust. Currently took my car out for a shaledown run after its restoration and i scraped 4 times in my 1/2 mile journey. Does anyone know how i could fix this before i start ordering new parts? The header flange is the lowest...

I checked the power valve and its a 6.5

Not sure about power valve it was just the one that came in the rebuild kit from summit it did originally have a 25 jet on it so should i change it back to that? Floats have been set and yes damper is lined up, also vacuum advance is disconnected currently

Trans was a lil low on fluid so i topped it off. No surge when switching gears. Converter is stock. Accelerator pump currently has a 36 jet size and has .02 gap. Im not sure what rich exhaust smells like, there is mosture when i stick my hand to it (not sure if its gas or just that its 65...

The cam has been broken in. I followed what u said and the results are better. Car now starts immediately without any throttle pumping, got the neutral idle to about 750 and in gear its 450-500 bouncing. Vacuum stays around 14 in neutral. I am getting some popping in the exhaust when it starts...

In neutral - 14hg in reverse - bounces between 5-10hg Timing stayed the same at 18degrees and idle in neutral is now 900 and in reverse dropped to 500 with a lil variation Do you happen to have a pic of what the transition slot looks like? I have the idle speed screw turn in only about a half...

Havent drove it yet so still in the brake in period, im going to check all these things you all have suggested and report back.

Highest vacuum I could get was 15 unless I moved the initial timing up to around 30 which seemed way too high but I'm not sure. could it be transmission related if it is not that? the trans has not been rebuilt