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Hey everyone thanks for the input. I was very lucky that I caught my issue before it destroyed my wiring. See pictures. Instead of rewiring the car I got a new bulkhead connector ($75) and engine harness ends ($28). I found my parts on eBay but if you do a search there are a lot of folks that...

Hi fellow B body fans, I need your help in selecting a new wire harness for my 67 Coronet convertible. I had the hood open and the car idling when I noticed smoke from the bulk head connection area. I turned it off and pulled the connectors and my engine harness to discover the bulk head &...

Good idea thanks. I'll try in the spring when I get back to the garage I love :) - suffering through the winter where the sun shine's and the golf balls disappear on a regular and frequent basis!

I know I'm a bit late to the discussion but Kern Dog is right you have your lines into the proportioning valve switched. Until that is resolved nothing will act as it should. The front takes a lot more fluid pushed through the system to operate (front brakes = 80% of braking power) and your...

OK lots of stuff to explore here - thanks! I'm going to start simple and move on from there. So distributor first. I'll pull that and make sure things are good - may just replace. I get the sense that the problem is electrical or electrical variation caused by mechanical movement. The timing...

Working on a 1967 Dodge Coronet RT clone. It has a 440 with Chrysler electronic ignition. Its my buddy's car and he has had for 20 years and never done anything to it. Previous owner rebuilt the engine but we don't have any specs for timing. I put new plugs, wires, rotor cap etc. I didn't know...

OK I'm all done ! Routing the rear brake line through the stock proportioning valve and then through the manual prop valve in series gave me the control I needed. I'm able to get rear brakes to lock up and then adjust down to no lock up which is all I needed. Things are adjusted and working...

Agh! I just recalled through the discussion of reducing pressure on rear brakes that when I talked to the guy that sold me this set up about where to install the manual proportioning valve he told me he preferred to bypass the stock proportioning valve and plumb direct from master Cyl through...

I'll keep you posted. I'm reaching out to local shop to see if they can sleeve the cylinders.I'm not sure I'll get to it before spring as I'm in Minnesota and winter is coming - if we get snow before I get cylinders I'll have to wait until spring to test.

I'm going to have someone sleeve 3/16 as I can always add pressure since my valve is all the way out.

I have a .938 bore, what would you recommend? I saw Rock Auto also had a cylinder with a .906 bore. Appreciate your help and advice

OK, I wouldn't object to that - putsy but easy to do . How do I know which ones to get?

Thanks - good feedback - The suspension is solid and no "nose dive", brakes are assembled and working correct although I know why that is important to ask. My thought was that the manual adjuster should all but shut off the back brakes, apparently not. I'm getting a positive feel that front...

I want to thank everyone for all the input. To better align with the rotor I used a 1/4' spacer on top (5/16 was original). Before I could bleed the system the replacement caliper showed up and fit sightly better. I bled the system and test drove. It worked as it should but I'm struggling with...

looks similar but no. Bleeder is at other end - and outside. You have to bleed with wheels off - weird huh?

The issue is it's not parallel - the rotor is centered in the caliper at the bottom (other end) but is offset and rubs at the top

Great feedback thanks! Earlier I described mounting the driver side caliper on the passenger side to check spindle and rotor and it checked out great. Good spacing and smooth operation. It is definitely the caliper and I suspect as some have expressed it was poorly machined.

Yes I was thinking of that. Just getting clearance for the rotor the pads and pistons would still be offset in the caliper. My concern is with the caliper being offset would that create an uneven surface for pads against the rotor when braking or do you think the pads would just wear to take up...