70 super bee brake problems

[Jimclo2002]

This is a front drum to disk conversion
ALL New brake lines
All new brakes pads
ALL Rear wheel cylinders
New master cylinder
New power booster
New front calipers
Drums are turned
Front rotors are new

The master cylinder filled to top


Pedal feel, pedal does have resistance but still goes to the floor?
Also, it feels like the brakes are not releasing .
Example: when I'm driving applying brakes bring the car to a stop then putting into 1 st gear then when I'm starting to go forward, it feels like the brakes are still holding.Seems it's taking a lot of power to get the car moving.

I checked the power booster rod length which comes out 3/4 and the master cylinder diaphragm is about 3/4 deep. That looks ok.

Do the rear brakes look ok? (See pictures)
I pulled the rear drums. Everything looks dry and I'm able to spin the wheels.

I took a photo of the proportion valve connections. Do they look correct?
people are saying do you have the front and rear connections reversed on the master cylinder?

How do I improve the low pedal travel to the floor? Sticking problem
Thank you for any help

 

[davek]

to me your drum brakes look right. My question is with the new setup did you replace your proportion valve?

 

[davek]

jack your front wheel up and see if its sticking?

 

[ckessel]

Did you manually adjust the rear drums? Or just put the parts in place?

 

[Paul73]

I had the same problem with my roadrunner which I also did a disc brake conversion on. Turns out, I just had to move the shoes out a bit in the rear.

 

[pnora]

I see you have the early style self adjuster on one side and the later style on the other side. You have the wrong adjuster screw on each side. They might work if you switch them from side to side as long as they are turning the right way. Myself I would have them the same on both sides.

 

[davek]

I see you have the early style self adjuster on one side and the later style on the other side. You have the wrong adjuster screw on each side. They might work if you switch them from side to side as long as they are turning the right way. Myself I would have them the same on both sides.

Dam good eye pnora

 

[Kern Dog]

This is yours:

This is a distribution block but the respective ports are in the same general location.

We have it described differently but I think we mean the same thing. I automatically default to thinking the frontmost port on the MC is for the rear but this isn't the case in every application.
Regardless....
A long and squishy pedal usually means air in the lines somewhere.

 

[Jimclo2002]

to me your drum brakes look right. My question is with the new setup did you replace your proportion valve?

Yes I replaced the proportion valve.

 

[Jimclo2002]

to me your drum brakes look right. My question is with the new setup did you replace your proportion valve?

Yes I replaced the proportion valve

 

[Jimclo2002]

Did you manually adjust the rear drums? Or just put the parts in place?

I did adjust the rear brakes with little drag

 

[Jimclo2002]

I see you have the early style self adjuster on one side and the later style on the other side. You have the wrong adjuster screw on each side. They might work if you switch them from side to side as long as they are turning the right way. Myself I would have them the same on both sides.

I see you have the early style self adjuster on one side and the later style on the other side. You have the wrong adjuster screw on each side. They might work if you switch them from side to side as long as they are turning the right way. Myself I would have them the same on both sides.

I'm not sure what you're saying regarding the self adjuster screw being wrong . Also which is the correct way of "turning the screw?

 

[Jimclo2002]

Did you manually adjust the rear drums? Or just put the parts in place?

I adjusted in place. The rear wheels turn freely

 

[pnora]

I'm not sure what you're saying regarding the self adjuster screw being wrong . Also which is the correct way of "turning the screw?

You have two different styles one of each. The two different styles take a certain toothed adjuster screw. The way you have it the screws do not match the style of the adjuster. They need to be swapped side to side. You also need to be sure they are turning the correct way for the self adjuster to work correctly. If wrong the will loosen the adjustment as you work the brakes. You have a 1/2 baked system right now. Cant you see the differences? Myself I would make both sides identical.

 

[Big mark]

If you are still having a soft pedal issue before you put on the new master cylinder did you bench bleed it and under my experience the best way to get all the air out of your brake system it to power bleed the system. Starting from the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder and bleeding on an x pattern.

 

[Jimclo2002]

If you are still having a soft pedal issue before you put on the new master cylinder did you bench bleed it and under my experience the best way to get all the air out of your brake system it to power bleed the system. Starting from the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder and bleeding on an x pattern.

Yes I did

 

[Dartman72]

I know I'm a bit late to the discussion but Kern Dog is right you have your lines into the proportioning valve switched. Until that is resolved nothing will act as it should. The front takes a lot more fluid pushed through the system to operate (front brakes = 80% of braking power) and your trying to feed it with small chamber of MC. Once lines are corrected power bleed the system (about $60 at Amazon or Summit) to get all air out and you should get a good pedal. While I don't think its part of your main issue the rear brake hardware is a mix and match and you should be replaced - Hardware kit is $15 at Rock Auto, get the one that has complete hardware including adjusting screws. If this helps please post results so others can benefit.