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Hello everyone, I have a manual steering box with a stock steering ratio which is 24:1 . Does anyone make a rebuild kit to increase the ratio to 16:1? Thanks

Thank you, Im going to check it out.

Thank you, do you have any pictures for refrence? Im trying to leave the steering box in the car for the mean while.

Is there any way I can adjust it without taking it out of the car?

Hi guys, I have noticed that my manual steering box is quite sloppy for a recent rebuild (1 year). I tried tightening the nut on top all the way down but the box still has a little bit of slack. I hear there is another way in the FSM to tighten it? Any help would be appreciated thanks.

I have a rebuilt manual steering box in my 71 RR. I ajusted the nut all the way down and it still has quite a bit of slop. What does this do to tighten it?

The rear leafs have new rubber bushings which I will leave in place. Rear sway bar has polyurethane bushings and links.

I greased the bushings with the supplied grease thoroughly, I am doing this on a budget so I have to source each part properly. Strut rod bushings are prothane as well. Lower control arms were welded together with boxing plates as well as Tubular uppers & stock torsion bars (for now). New idler...

I thought it would last longer. Will it make it handle better?

Interesting. This thing was very sloppy and all over the place even after an alignment. I welded the plates on the LCA's and installed the sleeveless bushings. I'm curious to see how the car will handle when I'm done with it. Tubular uppers with urethane bushings as well.

Hey guys, I am in the middle of rebuilding the front end on my 71 RR. I have ac delco sway bar links and rubber bushings on the sway bar. The rest of the suspension has polyurethane bushings including the rear sway bar. Will it make much of a difference to swap the new front sway bar rubber...

My goodness, I watched this video and it came right out. Not a single cuss word or wack of a hammer on the bar. Thank the good lord and thank you.

I decided to hold off on the larger torsion bars for the mean time and use the stock 340 ones currently in it. Torsion bars came out very easy.

Good evening everyone, I hear that you can remove these torsion bars with a 3/4 in. stainless steel pipe repair clamp. Does anyone know if this will work? https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/pipe-fittings/iron-fittings/49741?store=04861&gad_source=1&gclsrc=ds

I personally don't believe they are worth it unless the pivot shafts are completely worn out. I'm debating biting the bullet and buying the 1.03 torsion bars but I have no idea if the kyb's will make the ride super stiff or if the leaf springs will hold up.

I heard the adjustable strut rods aren't worth the money unless your racing. I have tubular uppers that should give me over 5 degrees of caster.

That won't be for a while. That kit is 1,400 bucks

I'll see if I can find them for cheap. I'm running the KYB's and have stock leaf springs. I don't have money for the bilsteins now. Do I need to upgrade leafs as well if i put larger torsion bars?

Car has a 340 in it right now. I don't know what size torsion bars came in a 340 roadrunner. All I know is they are original

Wheels are 15 inch radials. I have nice 235s upfront and 275s in the back. Manual steering really isnt that bad but am thinking of switching to a firm feel or borgeson unit in the future. I am curious to see how this thing will handle when im done with it. It is decent with both sway bars and...