• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Front end rebuild

cubanmoparnut54

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:11 AM
Joined
Apr 26, 2024
Messages
61
Reaction score
23
Location
Los angeles (soon to be arizona)
Hey guys I just finished painting my 71 RR tribute and I am getting ready to re-do the front suspension. Rear-suspension has been rebuilt with stock leaf springs new rubber bushings and a 7/8 rear sway bar with poly bushings. Shocks are brand new. Front sway bar is stock with new rubber bushings. I have new tubular POL upper control arms, LCA boxing plates and poly bushings, poly bushings for the strut rods, new lower balljoints and tire rod ends, fast ratio idler arm, Stock 318 torsion bars and 16:1 manual steering. I'm debating if I should change out the torsion bars and put in poly bump stops vs rubber ones. Want to make the car handle as well as possible. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
 
Part of the handling upgrade is tires/wheels. With your Power By Armstrong[ manual] steering, it's going to be interesting in a b body considering the weight of the car and a wide tire. You may want to bite the bullet and go power on the steering. Otherwise you need to run skinny tires up front.
 
Part of the handling upgrade is tires/wheels. With your Power By Armstrong[ manual] steering, it's going to be interesting in a b body considering the weight of the car and a wide tire. You may want to bite the bullet and go power on the steering. Otherwise you need to run skinny tires up front.
Wheels are 15 inch radials. I have nice 235s upfront and 275s in the back. Manual steering really isnt that bad but am thinking of switching to a firm feel or borgeson unit in the future. I am curious to see how this thing will handle when im done with it. It is decent with both sway bars and the new shocks (sadly KYB's). I didn't have money for bilsteins.
 
I Would upgrade the torsion bars. Especially if you have upgraded to a big block. Maybe go with a .98 or 1.03 torsion bar.
 
I beleive 340 came with a .87 torsion bar. I still think upgrading to .98 or 1.03 would be a good upgrade.
 
I beleive 340 came with a .87 torsion bar. I still think upgrading to .98 or 1.03 would be a good upgrade.
I'll see if I can find them for cheap. I'm running the KYB's and have stock leaf springs. I don't have money for the bilsteins now. Do I need to upgrade leafs as well if i put larger torsion bars?
 
The larger T-Bars 0.96 to 1.03 are a good update, and having an adjustable lower strut rod makes caster changes easier.
 
I heard the adjustable strut rods aren't worth the money unless your racing. I have tubular uppers that should give me over 5 degrees of caster.
Sounds good. I just have the stock upper control arms and boxed the lowers. Got the LCA pivot that can be greased, but not sure its worth it?
 
Sounds good. I just have the stock upper control arms and boxed the lowers. Got the LCA pivot that can be greased, but not sure its worth it?
I personally don't believe they are worth it unless the pivot shafts are completely worn out. I'm debating biting the bullet and buying the 1.03 torsion bars but I have no idea if the kyb's will make the ride super stiff or if the leaf springs will hold up.
 
The 1971 Charger has the Mopar 0.96" street handling T-Bars and KYB shocks from the 1990s. The shocks are stiff, but the ride is still pretty good, but firm. Not sure how they would be with the bigger 1.03" bars?
The 1969 Coronet has the same Mopar 0.96" bars and the RCD Bilsteins. It has a smoother ride.
With the 1.03" bars I'd use the Bilstein shocks, not the KYB shocks.
I think the KYB shocks are designed to be stiff for use with the softer original sized Torsen Bars.
The issue is the price difference between the shocks.
You could also get the Viking triple adjustable shocks at about $400 each.
 
I personally don't believe they are worth it unless the pivot shafts are completely worn out. I'm debating biting the bullet and buying the 1.03 torsion bars but I have no idea if the kyb's will make the ride super stiff or if the leaf springs will hold up.
The leaf springs ain't going to care if you put in larger T bars. Don't think you will have issues unless your rear bar is too large. I assume it's stock diameter? My 71 Cuda was a little tail happy but going to a wider rear tire solved that and it became more closer to neutral with a tire change. My rear tires were 275/60-15 mounted on 8" wheels and the fronts were 14x6 but can't remember the tire size.
 
The leaf springs ain't going to care if you put in larger T bars. Don't think you will have issues unless your rear bar is too large. I assume it's stock diameter? My 71 Cuda was a little tail happy but going to a wider rear tire solved that and it became more closer to neutral with a tire change. My rear tires were 275/60-15 mounted on 8" wheels and the fronts were 14x6 but can't remember the tire size.
I decided to hold off on the larger torsion bars for the mean time and use the stock 340 ones currently in it. Torsion bars came out very easy.
 
KYBs made mine ride like a lumber wagon
Someone mentioned that KYB means 'kill your back' lol. Never used them but bought Bilsteins for my 97 2500 diesel and wow....if I live long enough to have to ever replace them, I will go that route again. And I threw up a post here asking if anyone had experience with them on their diesel pickups when I was looking and well, That 'B' word was the most mentioned.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top