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“Video” Another Possible Hydraulic Roller Lifter Failure?

How was the oil pressure , Temp yesterday?
Temp was normal. This car never runs hot. Oil pressure was at 40+ and temp was at 181 when it happened. That’s the 1st thing I checked. Rev limiter set at 6k. Like mentioned in previous reply, was cruising at 2400k rpm when it happened.
 
If one of the rocker shafts is still on, you could back off an adjuster, see how many turns to get to zero preload. Reverse engineer
Ok I might check it tomorrow. I put it up for the rest of the day. Just sick to my stomach now. Wonder what happened?
 
If the tie bar is operating at an extreme angle due to a very small base circle on the camshaft or not enough valve spring pressure the tie bars can fail.
Could also be **** just failed. The tie bar does kind of look a bit thin?
Bad luck my friend I hope it is not to bad when you get it apart.
 
Anyone here check out Gnarly Speed Shop on The Toob?

They have a stroker in a charger with the TF top end.
They had a lifter fail too, and as I recall it was a link bar on that one too.

That doesn’t answer any questions here though.

We had a Morel lifter stick a plunger at the bottom of the body after one dyno pull up past 5800.
That was enough for me to not feel comfortable with that series of lifters for anything but the mildest of combos.

My gut feeling is they’re just not quite up to the job for a BB weight valvetrain, a fairly fast rate cam, stiff springs, and higher rocker ratios.
Unless you find a stuck plunger in on one of the two offending lifters,……….I feel like the link bar just failed.
Improper heat treat, material too thin, maybe an alignment issue between the pair, etc.
If you find a stuck plunger, then that probably exasperated the workout the link bar was getting.

Unfortunately, link bars aren’t unique to HR lifters.
The SR’s have them too.

The local builder here that I work with uses Johnson Lifters in the marine BBC applications……..and those things get a fairly serious workout almost all the time they’re running.

On the plus side, looks like you caught it pretty early.
I’d cut the oil filter open and let what I found in there guide my decisions moving forward.

Actually……looks like theirs broke the rivet.

 
Last edited:
Anyone here check out Gnarly Speed Shop on The Toob?

They have a stroker in a charger with the TF top end.
They had a lifter fail too, and as I recall it was a link bar on that one too.

That doesn’t answer any questions here though.

We had a Morel lifter stick a plunger at the bottom of the body after one dyno pull up past 5800.
That was enough for me to not feel comfortable with that series of lifters for anything but the mildest of combos.

My gut feeling is they’re just not quite up to the job for a BB weight valvetrain, a fairly fast rate cam, stiff springs, and higher rocker ratios.
Unless you find a stuck plunger in on one of the two offending lifters,……….I feel like the link bar just failed.
Improper heat treat, material too thin, maybe an alignment issue between the pair, etc.
If you find a stuck plunger, then that probably exasperated the workout the link bar was getting.

Unfortunately, link bars aren’t unique to HR lifters.
The SR’s have them too.

The local builder here that I work with uses Johnson Lifters in the marine BBC applications……..and those things get a fairly serious workout almost all the time they’re running.

On the plus side, looks like you caught it pretty early.
I’d cut the oil filter open and let what I found in there guide my decisions moving forward.

Actually……looks like theirs broke the rivet.


Thank you. I appreciate the advice!!! Any advice going forward from here for the fix?
 
Well, at a minimum you’ll need a new cam, and I’d recommend trying “better” lifters.

Beyond that, you’ll have to assess what you have and go from there.

You could try making a post asking about BBM’s with retrofit HR cams…….how many miles have you logged, and what parts are being used?
 
Just cruising home last night and the engine started to ticking. What’s funny is before this happened I had just talked to the guys from Indy and Keith Black about building a 572 and they both said throw the hydraulic rollers away after I talked about using some of my top end.

Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful info for my 440 build.
Avoid Morel hydraulic lifters and Comp cam
1745795002342.jpeg
 
As far what tie bars can handle there is a LOT more mass to keep going straight on a Hydraulic roller lifter vs a solid. I've never liked a tie bar that had a rivet attaching it vs bolted....seems cheap and weak.

It's possible that the link bar gave out after the roller crapped out and put a sideways load on it. Going to be hard to figure out the cause and effect at this point. You'll have to examine the lifters more closely.
 
Last edited:
Anyone here check out Gnarly Speed Shop on The Toob?

They have a stroker in a charger with the TF top end.
They had a lifter fail too, and as I recall it was a link bar on that one too.

That doesn’t answer any questions here though.

We had a Morel lifter stick a plunger at the bottom of the body after one dyno pull up past 5800.
That was enough for me to not feel comfortable with that series of lifters for anything but the mildest of combos.

My gut feeling is they’re just not quite up to the job for a BB weight valvetrain, a fairly fast rate cam, stiff springs, and higher rocker ratios.
Unless you find a stuck plunger in on one of the two offending lifters,……….I feel like the link bar just failed.
Improper heat treat, material too thin, maybe an alignment issue between the pair, etc.
If you find a stuck plunger, then that probably exasperated the workout the link bar was getting.

Unfortunately, link bars aren’t unique to HR lifters.
The SR’s have them too.

The local builder here that I work with uses Johnson Lifters in the marine BBC applications……..and those things get a fairly serious workout almost all the time they’re running.

On the plus side, looks like you caught it pretty early.
I’d cut the oil filter open and let what I found in there guide my decisions moving forward.

Actually……looks like theirs broke the rivet.


I was following that build and I recall that issue as well. it was running and driving and I think even went for track outing before they had the failure. They never figured out a cause but they put it back together different brand lifters, although I forget which ones.

Thank you. I appreciate the advice!!! Any advice going forward from here for the fix?
If possible, can you get one of the good cylinders to max lift (bar the engine over by hand) and try to determine if the tie bars are binding at max lift. That was never determined on camera in the Gnarly Speed Shop videos before they changed lifter brand and repaired it.
 
I was following that build and I recall that issue as well. it was running and driving and I think even went for track outing before they had the failure. They never figured out a cause but they put it back together different brand lifters, although I forget which ones.


If possible, can you get one of the good cylinders to max lift (bar the engine over by hand) and try to determine if the tie bars are binding at max lift. That was never determined on camera in the Gnarly Speed Shop videos before they changed lifter brand and repaired it.
I was curious about the max lift theory as well. Shouldn't be hard to check.
 
I see the prods are not parallel, intake is offset. That is probably putting some side force on the link bar. There is not much metal above & below the slot in the link bar, & that is where the failure occurred. Could the failure have been caused by flexing due to the prod being at an angle?
 
I was following that build and I recall that issue as well. it was running and driving and I think even went for track outing before they had the failure. They never figured out a cause but they put it back together different brand lifters, although I forget which ones.

They actually drove the car from SoCal up to Oregon and ran it in the Redwood Ralley drag n drive event……. And drove it back home.
Pretty brave for a new build.

The replacement lifters for round 2 are Isky’s, which are Johnson’s.
 
Apparently my reading comprehension needs some work.
I was just reading thru the OP’s posts, and it finally set in…….
He had TWO link bars fail!!
I’m going to say that’s a first for me.
I wonder how long it was from the first one failing, until the second one failed.
 
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