1 wire alternator swap

[70ChargerRT]

True, without the fuse for the new cable going from Battery to the alternator the cable could become the fuse if there is a short. These large fuses near the battery are really to protect the battery from excessive discharge if there is a short on the large wires connecting starter and alternator. Most of the starter and alternator wires are oversized to reduce voltage loss at high currents, so they can handle several hundred amps for a time before being damaged, but the constant battery discharge could damage the battery.
If the wires are properly routed, there is pretty low risk of a bad short to ground unless in an accident, or the alternator output stud shorts out.
I confess that when I first converted my car, I did it wrong by leaving the original alternator output wire connected. No shorts so no harm done, but someone pointed out the new alternator wire to battery cable was by-passing the fusible link, making it useless if there was a short.
That is why I like these forums, get to discuss and learn from them.

You make some good points but you are definitely not bypassing the fusible link. The only way to bypass the link is to of course take it off, the power is still coming through that 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay. I used 4 gauge welding cable for the Alt to battery and used 2 gauge welding cable from battery to starter. I kept the 8 gauge wire from the battery to the starter relay and then the fusible link from the relay to the bulkhead. You saw everything hooked up to my battery, my sniper is hooked up by itself on the side also. I run the AC, fans, sniper, vacuum pump, radio, lights, Dakota gauges and whatever else all at the same time with a new factory harness with zero problems and this is my setup using a single wire 160 amp powermaster alternator. If there is a better safer way I don’t care to try it.

 

[451Mopar]

What I was saying, is if the original alternator wire remains connected along with the new battery to alternator wire connected, then the fusible link is in parallel with the original alternator output wire (to each side of the ammeter.) If there was a short under the dash, the battery current would flow back to the alternator connected original output wire and back to the dash with or without the fusible link. That is why the original alternator wire is not used, but the bulkhead cavity that used to goto the alternator can be connected to the battery inputs bulkhead connector so split the load on the bulkhead connectors and be protected by the fusible link. I think were saying the same thing with different semantics

 

[70ChargerRT]

What I was saying, is if the original alternator wire remains connected along with the new battery to alternator wire connected, then the fusible link is in parallel with the original alternator output wire (to each side of the ammeter.) If there was a short under the dash, the battery current would flow back to the alternator connected original output wire and back to the dash with or without the fusible link. That is why the original alternator wire is not used, but the bulkhead cavity that used to goto the alternator can be connected to the battery inputs bulkhead connector so split the load on the bulkhead connectors and be protected by the fusible link. I think were saying the same thing with different semantics

Yes I completely understood what you were talking about the original alt wire and you are correct, we are talking about the same thing.