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11" drum scraping backing plate after conversion; axle sits deeper after diff swap. What's up?

cudak888

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Here's the deal (and a bit more on why a brake question is in the driveline forum):

Car data: 1968 Plymouth Satellite w/factory original 8.75 housing, 10" drum brakes, and (since swapped) original 2.76:1 open diff in 741 case.

A few weeks ago, I swapped the 2.76:1 diff in my Satellite to a 3:23. The 3.23 is also an open diff, but a 742 case.

When performing the swap, I had to re-adjust the right hand axle bearing inboard to maintain proper end play. No biggie, but the odd part was that after installing the 3.23, I had to readjust the axle endplay until the adjuster sat about 4mm deeper than previously - the curve of the adjuster already started to disappear in the threaded shaft. But it worked fine in the end, so what business did I have to complain, right?

Well, I had to find some way to get the problem to rear its head.

The 10" rear drums on the car were beat, so I figured it was an opportune time to install a pair of factory 11" Budd rear drums. Today, I did the deed, yanking the 10's off and fitting the Budd 11" drums, backing plates, and hardware (like a glove!):

5eb8n8.jpg


Everything went well until I reinstalled the right-side drum. To my surprise, the lip of the backing plate rubbed on the corresponding channel in the drum. The rubbing was so light that it left no witness marks from spinning it by hand, so I buttoned up the assembly, dropped the car back down on the ground, and went for a drive.

These extremely light witness marks were the result, along with the off-and-on scraping sound of metal on metal, like a brake shoe that just wore out enough to expose its first rivet. This scraping sound was especially prominent when the car's weight was loaded on its right side (that is, when making left-hand turns):

2yubvcj.jpg


1twyko.jpg


142ylw4.jpg


687ofk.jpg


n5ix05.jpg


I initially considered whether the drum was warped, but swapping the left drum with the right resulted in exactly the same symptoms. Then I considered whether the backing plate might be warped, but I've venture to say one would expect much more drastic (and consistent) witness marks if so.

I also know I have the end play itself adjusted correctly based on factory specifications, so slop couldn't really be a factor. And if it were, it would affect the left drum's position too.

This said, I'm rather convinced this isn't really a problem with the drum or the backing plate (they were a matched set from the same donor car, I believe), but some kind of funkiness going on with the 3.23's thrust block.

EDIT: I just read up on the wider thrust blocks on the pre-'64 8.75 standard center sections. Couldn't be that. Would have required an axle swap to start with, and the center section is definitely a post-'63 #2070741 unit.

However, I'm at a loss to what could be causing this - unless the 3.23 is missing something internally, or that the 742 case expects a longer axle to be used. And this is what brings me to you fellows, because I'm at a loss to explain it.

Let me know if you have any ideas.

-Kurt
 
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Check the thrust block in the center sections and make sure they are the same thickness.
 
Are you sure the thrust button or whatever they call it wasn't missing on your center section? The block has a 3 piece button (2 hat shaped bushings and a pin that goes threw them) that transfers the thrust threw the block... very easy to not notice.
 
The large amount of change in the thrust adjustment sure seems to point to the the thrust button in the diff. I've seen a couple of those come apart.
 
Check the thrust block in the center sections and make sure they are the same thickness.

Ought to be interesting to measure that without taking everything apart.

This said, I'm trying to think of the possible outcomes that would explain the problem - a pre-1964 thrust block is wider, so it can't be a mis-match of parts.

Barring that, I'm thinking wear is the only other possibility - but could a thrust button really get worn a quarter of an inch on one side? Sounds a bit far-fetched.

Are you sure the thrust button or whatever they call it wasn't missing on your center section? The block has a 3 piece button (2 hat shaped bushings and a pin that goes threw them) that transfers the thrust threw the block... very easy to not notice.

The three-piece button is for clutch-type Sure Grips. Not open diffs. Open diffs and cone-style Sure Grips have a one piece thrust block (part #2467268, unchanged from '68-74 based on the parts manuals) that rides on the cross pin (like this - note this isn't an 8-3/4):

DSCF1960.jpg

(From http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=79213.15)

And here's a really good picture of the sliding thrust block like an open diff has (though this is from a cone-type SG):

MVC-046S_zps2bc99705.jpg


By comparison, that three-piece button is from this little guy on the clutch-type Sure Grip:

gripapart.jpg

(http://www.darkside.ca/node/22)

And below (see pic #3):

Page14.jpg


At any rate, I know the one-piece thrust block in the 3.23 is there; some previous issues with the 2.76:1 diff (which turned out to be the brakes dragging instead) made me hyper-aware of this doodad and what it's supposed to look like when installed (and out of the car).

I can also cause the left axle to get stiff from over-tightening the bearings on the right axle, so the right axle is effectively transferring it's adjustment to the left - something it couldn't do if the thrust block were not installed.

The large amount of change in the thrust adjustment sure seems to point to the the thrust button in the diff. I've seen a couple of those come apart.

Do you mean split apart? Or are you talking about the 3-piece Sure Grip button?

-Kurt

P.S.: There's one thing for sure after Googling this problem: Nobody gives a hoot about open diffs in the Mopar world, it seems. Everything is about Sure Grips, and mostly the clutch type.
 
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Probably off the wall. But, any chance your overall axle lengths are off? That could sink an axle too deep into the housing, shifting the brake parts closer.
Just tossing ideas.
 
Probably off the wall. But, any chance your overall axle lengths are off? That could sink an axle too deep into the housing, shifting the brake parts closer.
Just tossing ideas.

I haven't any reason to doubt they're the originals. Especially since they were working fine with the 2.76:1 gear.

Left side still has a pinkish paint stripe encircling it; right side doesn't.

-Kurt
 
I thought that pic of the thrust pin from the cone unit looked familiar lol. And have never seen one of those broken. You are right...the 3 piece nail head thrust pins come only in the clutch plate units. IMO, I think the the factory could have come up with something better than that design....
 
I thought that pic of the thrust pin from the cone unit looked familiar lol. And have never seen one of those broken. You are right...the 3 piece nail head thrust pins come only in the clutch plate units. IMO, I think the the factory could have come up with something better than that design....

I did come up with a picture from one of the Mopar mags with one that cracked, but it remained in one piece with the axle load on it.

I'm really in a quandary here, as I'm not really sure that there's anything wrong with the 3.23 other than perhaps some shoddy tolerances from the factory on the thrust block. If so, should I go through the effort of dumping the damn thing all over again, or simply grind 2mm off the drum backing plate? What to do, what to do...

-Kurt
 
Man, I've been pretty rough on my cars over the years but have never messed up a thrust block! The nail head pins usually get messed up when someone applies too much adjustment to them (too tight) and over the long run, they get worked to death when things heat up and the axles expand. Do you know if the 8 3/4 in your 68 is the original housing with the original axles? If someone installed an axle from a 66-67, that could be your problem as they are slightly shorter. Are both of your axles the exact same length? I have some 66-67 axles that I could measure if you need....
 
Man, I've been pretty rough on my cars over the years but have never messed up a thrust block! The nail head pins usually get messed up when someone applies too much adjustment to them (too tight) and over the long run, they get worked to death when things heat up and the axles expand. Do you know if the 8 3/4 in your 68 is the original housing with the original axles? If someone installed an axle from a 66-67, that could be your problem as they are slightly shorter. Are both of your axles the exact same length? I have some 66-67 axles that I could measure if you need....

Pretty sure it's the original everything. When I popped everything apart back in January, it was as if nobody had been there before.

At any rate, I can pull the axles today (or next week, if I'm lazy) and measure them.

Honestly though, I'm still thinking differential. Why should the axles sit correctly with the 2.76:1 and not the 3.23:1? Probably make more sense just to swap thrust blocks, even though it'd be a huge PITA.

-Kurt
 
Yeah, I see where you mentioned that in post #7.....I guess I need to read better. How wide are your shoes and drums? I have several finned rear drums that are for 2 1/2" shoes. Yours are not finned so they might be for the 2" shoes? If I'm not mistaken, the backing plates have a different offset for the two sizes....
 
Yeah, I see where you mentioned that in post #7.....I guess I need to read better. How wide are your shoes and drums? I have several finned rear drums that are for 2 1/2" shoes. Yours are not finned so they might be for the 2" shoes? If I'm not mistaken, the backing plates have a different offset for the two sizes....

They're 2-1/2" finned. The one on the ground is the 10" that was pulled off the car.

-Kurt
 
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Ought to be interesting to measure that without taking everything apart.

This said, I'm trying to think of the possible outcomes that would explain the problem - a pre-1964 thrust block is wider, so it can't be a mis-match of parts.

Barring that, I'm thinking wear is the only other possibility - but could a thrust button really get worn a quarter of an inch on one side? Sounds a bit far-fetched.



The three-piece button is for clutch-type Sure Grips. Not open diffs. Open diffs and cone-style Sure Grips have a one piece thrust block (part #2467268, unchanged from '68-74 based on the parts manuals) that rides on the cross pin:

DSCF1960.jpg

(From http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=79213.15)

And here's a really good picture of the sliding thrust block like an open diff has (though this is from a cone-type SG):

MVC-046S_zps2bc99705.jpg


By comparison, that three-piece button is from this little guy on the clutch-type Sure Grip:

gripapart.jpg

(http://www.darkside.ca/node/22)

And below (see pic #3):

Page14.jpg


At any rate, I know the one-piece thrust block in the 3.23 is there; some previous issues with the 2.76:1 diff (which turned out to be the brakes dragging instead) made me hyper-aware of this doodad and what it's supposed to look like when installed (and out of the car).

I can also cause the left axle to get stiff from over-tightening the bearings on the right axle, so the right axle is effectively transferring it's adjustment to the left - something it couldn't do if the thrust block were not installed.



Do you mean split apart? Or are you talking about the 3-piece Sure Grip button?

-Kurt

P.S.: There's one thing for sure after Googling this problem: Nobody gives a hoot about open diffs in the Mopar world, it seems. Everything is about Sure Grips, and mostly the clutch type.
Thanks for straightening that out lol, guess I've only ever worked on the limited slip rears.
 
I know this is a different setup but I installed a big drum brake kit on the Currie 12bolt in my 65 Chevy II (be nice) and had the same issue. It turns out I installed the backing plate on the outer flange side. After a few removal and replacement episodes I finally realized it.
 
I know this is a different setup but I installed a big drum brake kit on the Currie 12bolt in my 65 Chevy II (be nice) and had the same issue. It turns out I installed the backing plate on the outer flange side. After a few removal and replacement episodes I finally realized it.

I think I know what you're describing (I'm Googling what the 12 bolt looks like), but I can't figure out how a backing plate can fit on the backside of the flange. At any rate, couldn't be an issue with the 8-3/4" - not possible!

-Kurt

P.S.: Not a Chevy fan myself, but not going to hate you for it :p . There's a neighbor not far from me with a perfectly restored, numbers matching '67 Camaro Z-28 which has been a FLAWLESSLY restored, primered shell for 20 years now. I'm not really a Camaro guy, but I'd sure pick it up in a heartbeat if he offered it to me. Also has a '67 convertible in the same condition and a '64 Nova. Wouldn't kick a single one of those out of bed...
 
Thanks for pass on the non-Mopar Kurt. Let me clarify the issue I had. My 12 bolt has the C clip eliminator-type axle flange similar to the 8 3/4 however the sequence of bolt,washer flange and nut was what I was screwing up. I should have been clearer.

Ernesto
 
I thought that pic of the thrust pin from the cone unit looked familiar lol. And have never seen one of those broken. You are right...the 3 piece nail head thrust pins come only in the clutch plate units. IMO, I think the the factory could have come up with something better than that design....

Ya, now that I think of it, my 8 3/4 limited slip diff's were all clutch type. Don't recall at all what the open style looked like.
 
The first pic in post #5 is a shot of what an open (non Sure Grip) diff looks like....but that shot is not of an 8 3/4 even though it's very similar.
 
I still think you need to pull the 3rd member and check the block. Its the only thing that would change right side axle depth. The preload should be close to the original setting if the parts are right. After all the left side is working the right side should also.
 
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