110 or 220 spot welder?

[greenmonsta79]

I am getting ready to weld in my trunk pan, trunk gutters, wheel houses, drop offs on my 69 Charger all the metal is AMD and I was wondering what spot welder I should pick up? 110 or 220 my garage has 220 so thats not a problem, just wondering with 12" tongs what kind of burn it's going to get with 110? I have a lead on a older miller timer 220 unit for $450.00
I saw harbor freight had a 220 for $200.00 anybody used one of theirs?
granted harbor freight stuff is not top notch but I will be using it for this project only.

 

[detmatt1]

First off the Harbor Freight unit will cost you more in the long run in lost time, frustration and finally humiliation! This whole job could not be accomplished by a jaw style spot welder anyhow as many of the welds would be way out of the reach of the tool. Mig is the way to go, one tool, start to finish and don't get that at Harbor Freight either!
Seriously, you should rent one or borrow one from a friend, 110 or 220 doesn't really matter so much as having a decent machine like a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart with infinite settings and gas shielded rather then flux core.

 

[ram250098]

First off the Harbor Freight unit will cost you more in the long run in lost time, frustration and finally humiliation! This whole job could not be accomplished by a jaw style spot welder anyhow as many of the welds would be way out of the reach of the tool. Mig is the way to go, one tool, start to finish and don't get that at Harbor Freight either!
Seriously, you should rent one or borrow one from a friend, 110 or 220 doesn't really matter so much as having a decent machine like a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart with infinite settings and gas shielded rather then flux core.

X2
Some of the better welders have spot welding attachments you can buy for them as well.
Al

 

[Cranky]

If you ever plan on welding larger projects...and many do once they start welding and see what they can build, the larger machines make better sense imo. I started out with a Lincoln 225 cracker box and used that thing for 15 years before buying a MillerMatic 200 MIG. I've owned a 110v MIG and didn't own it for long. I sold the old 225 cracker box when I bought a Miller 250 TIGRunner. Pretty sweet machine. Yeah, these machines are not small but I do have the room for them and I can weld pretty much anything I want. Many like the 110 machines but they are very limited imo.

 

[greenmonsta79]

I have a Miller and older Snap-On MIG welders, I understand the jaws will only go 12" deep and I will have to MIG those inboard holes just thought it might make life a bit easier on the trunk drop offs to trunk pan and welding the gutters to the quarter panels and a couple other "thin" places, This is not my "first rodeo" I do alot of welding (have done more quarters and rust repair than I care to think about) Also Dematt why would a 110 not be any different than a 220?? And I don't plan on using the spot welder for anything else beyond this as this is the last car that I am "restoring" (Done with them after this, keeping this car till I croak too damn expensive!)

 

[Cranky]

I've only used 220 units and can't say first hand on the 110 but have heard the 220 welders are faster and produce a better weld and with less heat soak to the area. I bet the amp draw on the 110 unit is pretty high too. To me, any kind of welding machine is a heavy duty tool and 110v supply just isn't heavy duty enough to put me in my comfort zone and especially so with a spot welder...but that's just me.

 

[RRunner70]

I have a chance to get a Millermatic 200 mig welder (1980s model going by the serial number) it does not have the argon tank or regulator guage with it they are gone and I will need to buy them. Also no wire in it, its empty.Friend of mine who has it said he would let me have it for $300 and said I could try it out before I buy it. What do you think? Should I get it or look elsewhere?

 

[detmatt1]

I have a chance to get a Millermatic 200 mig welder (1980s model going by the serial number) it does not have the argon tank or regulator guage with it they are gone and I will need to buy them. Also no wire in it, its empty.Friend of mine who has it said he would let me have it for $300 and said I could try it out before I buy it. What do you think? Should I get it or look elsewhere?

Buy it! That's a excellent deal and these machines are actually pretty simple and have long useful life because of it.

 

[detmatt1]

I have a Miller and older Snap-On MIG welders, I understand the jaws will only go 12" deep and I will have to MIG those inboard holes just thought it might make life a bit easier on the trunk drop offs to trunk pan and welding the gutters to the quarter panels and a couple other "thin" places, This is not my "first rodeo" I do alot of welding (have done more quarters and rust repair than I care to think about) Also Dematt why would a 110 not be any different than a 220?? And I don't plan on using the spot welder for anything else beyond this as this is the last car that I am "restoring" (Done with them after this, keeping this car till I croak too damn expensive!)

I'm saying that for this application a good 110 welder, like a Millermatic 140, will do everything you need it to and then some!

 

[Cranky]

I have a chance to get a Millermatic 200 mig welder (1980s model going by the serial number) it does not have the argon tank or regulator guage with it they are gone and I will need to buy them. Also no wire in it, its empty.Friend of mine who has it said he would let me have it for $300 and said I could try it out before I buy it. What do you think? Should I get it or look elsewhere?

Yup, buy it. That's what mine is. Got it in 86 in a trade for a motorcycle. A friend that built gym equipment had it but it was a spare machine that was only used when the work load was high but it was still used a lot but I haven't used it all that much. It came ready to run and had a full spool in it and it still has at least a half of that left.

 

[Propwash]

First off the Harbor Freight unit will cost you more in the long run in lost time, frustration and finally humiliation! This whole job could not be accomplished by a jaw style spot welder anyhow as many of the welds would be way out of the reach of the tool. Mig is the way to go, one tool, start to finish and don't get that at Harbor Freight either!
Seriously, you should rent one or borrow one from a friend, 110 or 220 doesn't really matter so much as having a decent machine like a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart with infinite settings and gas shielded rather then flux core.

X3........Great advice Matt.

 

[moperformance]

X3........Great advice Matt.

X4

 

[dave5237]

I agree with these guys. I have a millermatic 220v mig machine. I will never sell it because it does it all ( cuts down low for thin stuff and has the heat to do heavy stuff ). Of course I have a tig/stick miller 110/220 v as a backup but love that mig machine. Good luck.

 

[kb67mopar]

I say go 220v minimum. I had a 110 flux core and there just isnt the same adjustment with the 110. they are hotter, burn through easier and just not good. Stay away from Harbor Freight welders...junk.

I bought an Eastwood MIG 175 and so far love it, built the welding cart you see with it...best part was for $580 shipped you get the welder, its standard attachments and a spool gun for welding aluminum (which I havent tried yet) but that usually costs $200 on its own. And so far it works just as good as a lincoln electric which I have used.

 

[greenmonsta79]

Well I bought a older 220v Miller timer unit spot welder with 12" jaws. I understand everyone here is ranting and raving about MIG only and I know I will have to use it for the middle of the trunk pan area, but I think using the spot welder will be benifical in areas such as welding the gutters to the quarters, trunk drop offs to trunk pan, pretty much the entire valance, rear spring hanger to frame rail, quarters to rear window pinchweld, lower quarter to rocker, outer wheelhouses to inner, etc. just so many places and I like the fact of not spending all that time drilling holes, clamping, grinding the welds when I can spend that added time on something else, and after the project is finished I will sell the spot welder. easy enough.

 

[green1]

Used migs, 110, 220, flux, gas. Here is my experience; 220 gas, weld up to 3/8" little down time (hobart). Lincolns- 110 flux; don't try body panels, good on 16 gauge to 1/4". gas Lincoln with infinite adjustments is the best.

Cleaniness is most important, and a auto darkening helmet (harbor freight).

Need to go for un-clean 1/4" and above? Drag out the 225 arc buzz box, with a 6011 3/16" rod.