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1964 Plymouth Fury Need front suspension advice

44070dart

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Just picked up a '64 Fury and it needs the original front end suspension replaced. I'd like to get some upgrades while doing it, but I'm not the deep pocket type. Looking at kits, but not sure about poly graphite's. Any advice appreciated.
 
Polyurethane is a harder material than the original rubber bushings. When you compare them side by side, the poly seems like a hard plastic. So hard, when installed, some bushings will squeak. Grease may break down those bushings, over time, so the graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings resolve that.

I've put all poly bushings on an e-body front-end (and rear) rebuild, and I was a little sorry after. It definitely improved handling, and cornering, but it was a little too stiff for my taste. I could feel a great deal more feedback through the steering. Sometimes, it seemed like I could even feel when I ran over a pebble. The first few weeks, it was pretty awesome. But after a few years of driving, I miss some of that lost comfort in the ride.

Rebuilding the front end is not that hard, and honestly, I find it pretty fun. I've done 5-6 (B & E body) of them over the years, and I really look forward to doing it, when the opportunity comes up.

For a one-time rebuild, it's ideal if you can find someone to borrow the tools from. But to do it, there are some special tools that make the job easier. Removing the ball joints can be frustrating if you don't know any tips or tricks. So watch some you-tube videos and learn.

One client, took their car in to a suspension shop and had them break loose all the difficult ball joints and connections, then retightened them back up, and he drove home. When I went over to assist in the rebuild, things came apart pretty easily.

There are (for example) stronger control arms, and other parts you can replace. The car won't "look" factory after bolting on some of these items. And frankly, the OEM factory design is pretty decent. Keeping all the structural parts, and just replacing the stuff that wears out, still produces very good results. You'll want to replace all the bushings, upper & lower ball joints, and the tie-rod ends. Some also do the steering and pitman arms.

The suspension rebuild kits are okay. But not ideal. You don't usually get to pick and choose the parts you want when buying a kit, and some of them contain inferior parts. Moog and TRW used to be some good names to look for, but things may be changing in our current (everything from China) buying world.

Take your time with this, and learn about the rebuild and what parts to replace. Enjoy it, because it is fun and can make a dramatic improvement to the handling of your car.
 
The “ kits “ that are offered these days are all very Chineseum , very sub standard , and are not even complete….. You are still required to find parts on the outside , because they don’t have availability….

You indicated immediately that you are on a budget , so you may not be able to afford Quality….. but it is a once for lifetime investment , and it would be smart to do it once with Quality and *** U.S.A. made *** parts…..

If you want to go the intelligent route, P.M. me , as per forum rules, and I can go over everything with you…..

I have All fifteen (15) items , plentifully in stock , to service a complete Front End…..

Yours, Craig…..
 
Thanks, I'll look into these comments. I just would like it better than a 1964 ride, but nothing exotic. I did my Charger a few years ago, and really screwed it up by rushing into the job, and wound up costing about twice what it should have. I'll PM you MP after the new year.. thanks. Any other comment greatly appreciated.
 
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I've done plenty of these. Bushings and boots will always be trashed. Moog offset upper bushings (in the forward location of the upper arm) will help get reasonable alignment specs. I always install them. Disassemble and check all components. You would be surprised that most of it will be in good shape. Lower ball joints, idler arm and bushings are usually what will be worn. I've had no trouble with poly strut rod or poly lower bushings. My 64 race car has all the original parts except the idler arm and bushings. All the rest was in good shape. Car has been raced to 150 mph for 12 years over 1100 passes. Tips if you are doing it yourself; If it does need upper ball joints unscrew them (special socket) with the control arms still on the car,. If you are using poly lower bushings drill into the original rubber bushing with a 3/8" bit it will walk around and pull the rubber right out. The sleeve on the lower control stud will fall off if you pound directly into it with a hammer. If you are using rubber lower bushings you will need to remove th eouter bushing sleeve. Weld a thick washer to the outer sleeve in the lower control arm. Then the sleeve can be pressed out by pressing on the washer. Moog stuff is good. The prices vary widely. Shop around. Poly boots are available and work decent, though they don't look factory.
Doug
 
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