It's a one year only shroud, small cars with A/C and cars with 26" radiator. In picture the bolt on shield isn't on 67 and newer. Part number is on radiator side.
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2
- Thread starter dadsbee
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My air dam / rock shield for in front of the radiator arrived from New York today. Thanks to @chargercrazed for making that happen and doing an incredible job on packaging the metal taped to a sheet of underlay.
Postage is getting absolutely NUTS. Actual was $79 US with gas surcharge. Over $100 Canadian just for postage.
66 and 67, unlike other years that are black, were bolted to the radiator support before paint. Therefore they got body colour on them, at least until the grill black out was sprayed. Thanks to @R413 for that historical tidbit prior to this one showing up to confirm his facts.
Bottom / road side is black out with some body colour peeking out.
Another shot of "as factory". Now I need to make it Silver vs White. You can see the rust where it's bolted to the radiator support to show it wasn't painted pre-assembly.
Postage is getting absolutely NUTS. Actual was $79 US with gas surcharge. Over $100 Canadian just for postage.
66 and 67, unlike other years that are black, were bolted to the radiator support before paint. Therefore they got body colour on them, at least until the grill black out was sprayed. Thanks to @R413 for that historical tidbit prior to this one showing up to confirm his facts.
Bottom / road side is black out with some body colour peeking out.
Another shot of "as factory". Now I need to make it Silver vs White. You can see the rust where it's bolted to the radiator support to show it wasn't painted pre-assembly.
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I lose a lot of sales because of this. All these businesses offering free shipping, people expect private sellers to do the same or lower the item price, unreal.
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Original seal still in place on the passenger side between grill and radiator support.
Original seal on the drivers side between grill/bumper and radiator support.
So excited to see the same green tinted dip primer on the air dam / rock shield that is on the bottom of the car! Dipped primer and black out only on the bottom/road side, no sign of (in this case White) body colour.
Top side in body colour, over top of the green dip primer with over spray from radiator support black out.
Test fit on the rubber seal.
Of course they forgot to punch a hole and shorted me a retainer clip. Seems to be the norm with DMT, those clips add up on the bottom line!
The bottom sides "patina" matches the cars radiator support perfectly and I'm not going to "em-better" that!
Cleaned with lacquer thinner and wax and grease remover, scuffed with 220 and cleaned again.
Lower side taped off so I don't mess up the "patina".
Original attach hardware is still on the car!
Original seal on the drivers side between grill/bumper and radiator support.
So excited to see the same green tinted dip primer on the air dam / rock shield that is on the bottom of the car! Dipped primer and black out only on the bottom/road side, no sign of (in this case White) body colour.
Top side in body colour, over top of the green dip primer with over spray from radiator support black out.
Test fit on the rubber seal.
Of course they forgot to punch a hole and shorted me a retainer clip. Seems to be the norm with DMT, those clips add up on the bottom line!
The bottom sides "patina" matches the cars radiator support perfectly and I'm not going to "em-better" that!
Cleaned with lacquer thinner and wax and grease remover, scuffed with 220 and cleaned again.
Lower side taped off so I don't mess up the "patina".
Original attach hardware is still on the car!
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Detail shot of the clip nut. All cleaned up and dipped in Boeshield T9.
Top side painted Silver and then a quick over spray of Black from the radiator support Black out application.
Into the bake oven and the furnace turned up for the night.
On bake for the night, install tomorrow.
Top side painted Silver and then a quick over spray of Black from the radiator support Black out application.
Into the bake oven and the furnace turned up for the night.
On bake for the night, install tomorrow.
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Retainer push pins that came with the rubber shield on the left and some stainless ones I fortunately had on the right, with some pear shaped hips.
As supplied are useless and don't hold the seal tightly in place.
The ones I had hold the rubber down TIGHT. It's all in the "hips".
Clips I had that work!
Air dam seal in place and ready to install.
Air dam bolted into place.
About as weathered as the radiator support. Why I didn't want to "restore" it... as that never ends.
View of the air dam between the radiator and the bumper. Totally sealed up now so all air through the grill gets forced through the radiator.
Time to tackle the ripped upper shifter boot and the missing lower boot. 2 screws inside the console door. The front end just has a tab that slides out of the housing.
Console top loose and coming off. Boot was ripped anyhow so I just lifted it past the revere lock out levers.
As supplied are useless and don't hold the seal tightly in place.
The ones I had hold the rubber down TIGHT. It's all in the "hips".
Clips I had that work!
Air dam seal in place and ready to install.
Air dam bolted into place.
About as weathered as the radiator support. Why I didn't want to "restore" it... as that never ends.
View of the air dam between the radiator and the bumper. Totally sealed up now so all air through the grill gets forced through the radiator.
Time to tackle the ripped upper shifter boot and the missing lower boot. 2 screws inside the console door. The front end just has a tab that slides out of the housing.
Console top loose and coming off. Boot was ripped anyhow so I just lifted it past the revere lock out levers.
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Apparent the lower boot that's missing would have also kept a mouse or chipmunk out of here. Found chewed peanut shells, sunflower seeds but amazingly no ****. Leads me to believe a chipmunk jumped up through the hole at the cars past home.
Figure I'm here we'll check it totally for rodent intrusion.
Now I have to figure out how to get this boot down over the mechanism. I've read some stuff that says the entire shifter has to come apart and be reassembled in the boot. Probably why many cars are missing theirs...
Original upper boot. Held on by 4 pal nuts to the studs on the bottom of the console top plate.
OE boot Part #2660394
Reproduction boot with OE style moulded in steel plate on the left, OE on the right. Reproduction certainly doesn't have the grain of the OE. Just hope it doesn't rip getting it on the shifter handle.
Yep, it's off....
Seemed like the best way to clean all the crud out of the groves. Not sure if it's dirt or they were originally black paint in each grove. Looked like crap either way.
Rear face of the console filthy. Q tips and spit work good.
1/2 of it done on round one. It will need another go.
Figure I'm here we'll check it totally for rodent intrusion.
Now I have to figure out how to get this boot down over the mechanism. I've read some stuff that says the entire shifter has to come apart and be reassembled in the boot. Probably why many cars are missing theirs...
Original upper boot. Held on by 4 pal nuts to the studs on the bottom of the console top plate.
OE boot Part #2660394
Reproduction boot with OE style moulded in steel plate on the left, OE on the right. Reproduction certainly doesn't have the grain of the OE. Just hope it doesn't rip getting it on the shifter handle.
Yep, it's off....
Seemed like the best way to clean all the crud out of the groves. Not sure if it's dirt or they were originally black paint in each grove. Looked like crap either way.
Rear face of the console filthy. Q tips and spit work good.
1/2 of it done on round one. It will need another go.
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Shifter handle, with the reverse lock out cable inside, coming off the mechanism. No worries, nothing falls apart...
Polished it up as well. Now I'm going to have to take it apart to get the boot over the shaft. Not chancing a stretch attempt over the T handle with a $230Cdn boot. I'm told once you take the lock out cable out you'll never get it back in, sounds like a challenge!
All 3 shifter linkages removed from the mechanism arms and then the three bolts removed to get the shifter mechanism off the transmission.
Thought I had to pull the levers out, from everything I've read, but was able to stretch the rectangular hole over the 3 levers
Then the two mounting ears go through the slots and pivot/mounting bolt through the hole.
Boot in place ready to put the mechanism back on the transmission.
Back in place on the transmission. Before tightening the upper/pivot bolt you need to get in the car and pull up on the boot to make sure the rubber around the hole isn't snagged between the shifter and the mount. You can hold the boot and JUST reach the bolt with two fingers to snug it by hand. Then back under to tighten everything up.
Carpet falling off the console end. Spray adhesive to the rescue.
Carpet back on.
I'm not wasting a metal ring in here to hold the boot. Some washers and #10 stainless screws. Don't drop true stainless screws into the boot, they don't retrieve with a magnet! Amazes me how they did this **** quickly on the line while everything was moving.
Polished it up as well. Now I'm going to have to take it apart to get the boot over the shaft. Not chancing a stretch attempt over the T handle with a $230Cdn boot. I'm told once you take the lock out cable out you'll never get it back in, sounds like a challenge!
All 3 shifter linkages removed from the mechanism arms and then the three bolts removed to get the shifter mechanism off the transmission.
Thought I had to pull the levers out, from everything I've read, but was able to stretch the rectangular hole over the 3 levers
Then the two mounting ears go through the slots and pivot/mounting bolt through the hole.
Boot in place ready to put the mechanism back on the transmission.
Back in place on the transmission. Before tightening the upper/pivot bolt you need to get in the car and pull up on the boot to make sure the rubber around the hole isn't snagged between the shifter and the mount. You can hold the boot and JUST reach the bolt with two fingers to snug it by hand. Then back under to tighten everything up.
Carpet falling off the console end. Spray adhesive to the rescue.
Carpet back on.
I'm not wasting a metal ring in here to hold the boot. Some washers and #10 stainless screws. Don't drop true stainless screws into the boot, they don't retrieve with a magnet! Amazes me how they did this **** quickly on the line while everything was moving.
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On my 68 Charger, I have the Inland mechanism, but I went with Brewer's Hurst conversion mechanism. The reverse lockout does nothing with this unit, but that really isn't a problem.
www.brewersperformance.com
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
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Here's a couple shots of my bumper splash shield showing how much was painted black.
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That is a pretty slick piece. When I built my 1-of-0 1967 Coronet R/T station wagon, I converted it from 318 Poly, automatic to 440, 4-speed. I had buckets/buddy seat in the front, and searched down a non-console Inland shifter for it. At the time, one of my neighbours was a fabrication shop, and they made me an adapter much like Brewer's piece for my Hurst shifter. It looked like proper '67, but shifted must better. Although the reverse "T" handle no longer worked, the regular Hurst spring-loaded reverse lock out still did. This was about 1995 that I built this car.
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Thanks Mark... I duplicated "mine" to Silver to pretty much exactly how I got it from David in White.
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My Inland is quite tight and shifts just fine. Only thing I hate, and it's more the "console" shifter thing, is reaching way the f over for the shifter vs being right beside my knee in my non-console Bee.
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Agree. The mid-68 and 1969 Hurst shifter is right there beside you.
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Here's my used car salesman trick of the day!
Sun faded carpet on the console sides starts to look reddish as they get old. Had the same deal on most of the Wife's old 'Vette interior.
Black shoe polish on the brush and worked into 1/2 the carpet in this shot.
Shoe polish worked in and then "buffed" out on the entire carpet piece. Looks much better, but might give it another coat. My 40+ year old shoe polish is getting a bit hard.. lol
Inland shifter reverse lock out mechanism. Spring loaded plunger in down position won't allow you to put the transmission in reverse.
Pull up on the T handle and it retracts the plunger allowing the handle to move over into reverse postion.
Short bolt, an old seat belt tongue and a couple of spring clamps to hold the plunger in and put slack in the cable to the T handle.
With the cable slack I can now remove the allen set screw in the T handle to release the cable. 1/16th key. Note that gap between T handle and shaft for reassembly!
Pulled the cable tight / T handle down so I can straighten the cable before extracting. Many say I'll never get it back together!
Cable straight, only one strand broke... well maybe two.
Sun faded carpet on the console sides starts to look reddish as they get old. Had the same deal on most of the Wife's old 'Vette interior.
Black shoe polish on the brush and worked into 1/2 the carpet in this shot.
Shoe polish worked in and then "buffed" out on the entire carpet piece. Looks much better, but might give it another coat. My 40+ year old shoe polish is getting a bit hard.. lol
Inland shifter reverse lock out mechanism. Spring loaded plunger in down position won't allow you to put the transmission in reverse.
Pull up on the T handle and it retracts the plunger allowing the handle to move over into reverse postion.
Short bolt, an old seat belt tongue and a couple of spring clamps to hold the plunger in and put slack in the cable to the T handle.
With the cable slack I can now remove the allen set screw in the T handle to release the cable. 1/16th key. Note that gap between T handle and shaft for reassembly!
Pulled the cable tight / T handle down so I can straighten the cable before extracting. Many say I'll never get it back together!
Cable straight, only one strand broke... well maybe two.
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T handle off.
Plunger, spring and cable with it's plastic covering tube on it that reduces wear inside the shifter handle.
Before I forget why I'm here... new shifter boot in place, correct side up!
T handle has a plastic wear sleeve inside. Cleaned it up and put it back.
Some 0.025 safety tie wire cut to about 8" long.
Stuck the wire into the center of the cable strands and twisted them the best I could to get it to stay in place and to get the cable end down as small as it would go. Then carefully fed the wire through the handles cable hole while lightly pulling. My guide wire popped off JUST as the cable poked it's head through on the 2nd try!
With about a 1/2" gap between the shifter handle and the T handle I snugged up the set screw and then removed the spring clamps that were holding the plunger in. Test ran a few times with a perfect "throw" plunger up / plunger
Ready to put back in the car. I'll call that a WIN.
Thought I'd clean the grim off the ball. It didn't appear to have white in the #'s or pattern. First scrub the White appeared... and then I over did it..
Now I get to figure out how to do a nice repaint...
Plunger, spring and cable with it's plastic covering tube on it that reduces wear inside the shifter handle.
Before I forget why I'm here... new shifter boot in place, correct side up!
T handle has a plastic wear sleeve inside. Cleaned it up and put it back.
Some 0.025 safety tie wire cut to about 8" long.
Stuck the wire into the center of the cable strands and twisted them the best I could to get it to stay in place and to get the cable end down as small as it would go. Then carefully fed the wire through the handles cable hole while lightly pulling. My guide wire popped off JUST as the cable poked it's head through on the 2nd try!
With about a 1/2" gap between the shifter handle and the T handle I snugged up the set screw and then removed the spring clamps that were holding the plunger in. Test ran a few times with a perfect "throw" plunger up / plunger
Ready to put back in the car. I'll call that a WIN.
Thought I'd clean the grim off the ball. It didn't appear to have white in the #'s or pattern. First scrub the White appeared... and then I over did it..
Now I get to figure out how to do a nice repaint...
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Just fill in the #'s and such with white model car paint (Testor's in small bottles). It is thicker than spray paint. Let it set up a little bit, and wipe excess off with Castrol Super Clean with a rag or blue paper shop towel. I work on plastic model cars, and use Super Clean to remove paint from plastic with no harmful effects.
You can also fine sand and polish the ball up with compound to look like new if so inclined. I repainted mine but I think I did it carefully with a brush. Sort of off focus.
There's a joke in here somewhere for Roger. @kiwigtxHere's my used car salesman trick of the day!
My 40+ year old shoe polish is getting a bit hard.. lol
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