1966 Satellite restomod street toy

[khryslerkid]

Hi Guys' In my last post I indicated that longer top shock eyes were in order. I wished to gain some rebound (droop) and reduce the bump side travel. The total shock travel was ok but I had it biased toward the bump side not allowing enough droop. As I indicated the simplest solution was to extend the upper shock eye. I elected to machine them manually so they didn't require CNC time and use up favors. The new eyes aren't as pretty as the originals but I was able to do most of the machine work myself. One of my friends at the shop, Tom B did the snap ring grooves, it's a tricky operation with a standard boring head and requires a deft touch not to snap off the .046 grooving tool. We increased the section under the bore radius to make them easier to machine and I felt the with the increased distance between the end of the shaft and the mono ball bore additional material couldn't hurt.
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In the location that they're in the vehicle you really can't see them unless you pull the wheel and tire off. I guess I'm getting lazy. If you're getting tired of seeing this project blame Kryslerkid.......LOL......it's his fault, he's the one that said I needed to include more background information. Thanks for looking, Brian.

Hey I'm used to getting blamed for things and I'll gladly take credit!

Looking good Brian. I love machine work and I like seeing good work

 

[bherman]

Hey I'm used to getting blamed for things and I'll gladly take credit!

Looking good Brian. I love machine work and I like seeing good work

Kryslerkid, Isn't that the truth, we get blamed for everything! I just thought I'd spread it around. Thanks for your comment, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys, when I last posted, I was working on increasing the rebound in the front suspension. As I indicated previously, longer top shock eyes were machined. After the redesign of the eyes and updating the computer model an interference between the tie rod end and lower control arm front strut was observed. The interference occurred with the suspension at full "droop" and the steering at full lock. The only "simple" solution that I could see for this issue was a vertically offset outer tie rod end. A straight tie rod link would certainly be the preferred condition from a strength stand point and has a cleaner look, I believe that they are plenty robust.

You can see with the suspension drooped and steering at full lock what the clearance looks like.

And the assembled upper shock eye in position.

We also set-up and checked the bump steer, shimming the heim joint in the steering arm we managed to get the toe change almost perfect with a very small amount of bump out (.010-.013) in the last inch of bump travel. The guys around here would say close enough for you it's for..........LOL.

As always I value your input and thanks for looking, Brian

 

[493 Mike]

An elegant looking solution I must say!
Mike

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys, like many projects I'm not sure this one will ever be done. I'm not sure I would know what to do with myself if it was. After the car had been painted for 9 months (during final assembly) it was time to re-rub the paint. I didn't realize how much shrinkage goes on as the paint cures and how much the final rub-out would improve the the appearance. I indicated in an earlier post that I elected not gap the panels on this car preferring to fit them like they were when stock not like a plasticized show car. Hindsight of course being 20/20 the passenger side door gap at the bottom bothers me and I wish that I had it fixed. Following my original logic, this car was never crashed and that was the way it left the factory. I guess I'm not going to change now, so it is what it is..........LOL.

I'm not really a car show kind of guy but I did take the car to a local non-judged show. There was some very cool cars there but I'm pretty sure the majority of the cars were late model Mustangs and Corvettes that the young guys were drawn to like flies, it was great it gave me easy access to the interesting cars. I did notice a trend, most all of the people around the cars I was interested in were old and the young guys passed them at a fast walk.

I still have a large list of thinks to do but I need something to keep me busy. I guess the ones that bug me the most are the ones that I intended to do during assembly and forgot to do. For example after reading about cluster grounding issues (on this site) I intended to create a separate cluster ground in the system, I didn't, now I have intermittent gauge operation.

Some the members of this site thought that the wheels should be body color, I think they're right. I'm going to find a wheel, paint it and mount a tire to see what it looks like. Thanks for looking, Brian

 

[Riverdawg]

Amazing car! Great craftsmanship. Not sure about the body color wheels, I like the black steelies myself. Interesting to see how body colored ones would look.

 

[roadrunner69440]

That is such a sweet ride! Very meticulously done. I love it when guys with that much automotive passion put their skills to a Mopar!

 

[bherman]

Amazing car! Great craftsmanship. Not sure about the body color wheels, I like the black steelies myself. Interesting to see how body colored ones would look.

Thanks Riverdawg, I'm not sure either. The car looks good to me with the black steelies but I don't think it photographs well, thanks again, Brian.

That is such a sweet ride! Very meticulously done. I love it when guys with that much automotive passion put their skills to a Mopar!

roadrunner6940, thank you for your kind comment, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys, as I posted previously when I drove the car back from the paint shop and put it on the hoist I noticed a pretty large stone lodged in the tread of one of the front tires. While I was digging it out I looked up and thought the underside of the fender is totally unprotected. I really wasn't concerned about stone chips in the underside paint, hey they're gonna happen if you drive the car. I was concerned that a stone as large as the one I found in the tire would dent the fender from underneath and create a "star" in the topside of the fender. The view that I'm describing can be seen in the first photo.

I solicited advice from the members here and got some good ideas on what to do with this issue. Some of the ideas included spraying Rhino liner, gluing foam or rubber on the underside of the fender and re-undercoating the space between the stone shields. I pondered the options while we were doing finish assembly. I really only wanted to protect the horizontal flat portion of the fender between the shields. When it was time to drive car and procrastination was no longer an option I elected to go with the glued on rubber sheet option. We utilized masticated rubber, the same material as the inner fender close-outs. Over the years we have attached rubber sheet on a number of projects and have found silicone to be the best adhesive. Unfortunately it has no adhesion until it cures and the rubber has to be held in contact with the glue surface until it cures. We cut a thin piece of aluminum and pushed the rubber against the fender with spring loaded curtain rods set on a table (with the car on hoist).

This is how it turned out. I think I'm happy with the way it came out, with the same rubber material on the upper arm camber close-outs and stone shield seals it kind of looks like it belongs there. What do you think? As always thanks for looking, Brian.

 

[bherman]

Hi Guys, I haven't posted for a while. I've been working on other projects and I needed break from this one. I drove the car a little and discovered with my worsening M.S. I'm not very comfortable driving the car. Fortunately I didn't have any trouble finding a driver........LOL. It's faster than I thought it would be. I outlined previously that I did not believe the engine combination was optimum, only producing 560 HP and about the same max torque. With a vehicle weight of 3800 LBS I was not expecting the car to be as responsive as it is. With the 3.73 rear gear, 28.5 tall rear tire and a 3200 stall converter, the package seems to work well together. The BFG 275 60 15 tires are not up to the task. Possibly a re-fitment with a drag radial would help. What do you guys think? I did loosen the front shocks up and it was better but I haven't had an opportunity to watch the rear without me in the car. From the passenger seat the rear end felt pretty neutral. While I'm not planning on racing it I would like it to have a little more forward drive!

On another front, I told you Guys' that you couldn't be thin skinned around here and if no one was screwing with you, then they probably weren't talking to you! I hadn't been in the conference room for quite some time and while walking by this poster caught my eye.

Be sure to notice the front plate! When I brought the rear end assembly back from powder coat one of the guys in the shop called it gold member and I have been listening to "Gold member" sung to the tune of "Gold finger" for the last five years. Now on to how my "friend" Bob acquired a photo of me "taking a squat" to do this photo shop, I built a go-cart for my oldest grandson several years ago and I brought to the shop to rebuild the brakes. While testing I was dumb enough to allow my picture to be taken...........Never a good idea around here!

I guess if you hang-out with a bunch talented smart-a**es Your'e gonna get screwed with!
Thanks for looking, Brian.

 

[493 Mike]

Some the members of this site thought that the wheels should be body color, I think they're right. I'm going to find a wheel, paint it and mount a tire to see what it looks like. Thanks for looking, Brian[/QUOTE]

15 years ago I wanted to spice up my 1994 Dodge 2500 (with steel/trim ring/chrome hub caps) so I painted 2 wheels red and 2 wheels yellow. I even changed the left side tape stripe to yellow to match the wheel color. Well I still have two sets of different colored wheels on my truck. I still haven't picked a favorite! I like them both and no one can see both sides at once. I have had fun with the difference!

Mike

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

my pitt racer with a cute a top .

 

[bherman]

Some the members of this site thought that the wheels should be body color, I think they're right. I'm going to find a wheel, paint it and mount a tire to see what it looks like. Thanks for looking, Brian

15 years ago I wanted to spice up my 1994 Dodge 2500 (with steel/trim ring/chrome hub caps) so I painted 2 wheels red and 2 wheels yellow. I even changed the left side tape stripe to yellow to match the wheel color. Well I still have two sets of different colored wheels on my truck. I still haven't picked a favorite! I like them both and no one can see both sides at once. I have had fun with the difference!View attachment 882536
Mike[/QUOTE]

Mike, I have been accused of procrastinating many times..........but you may have me beat, LOL. Does any one notice the different colors if you don't point it out? When I purchased the wheels for my car, I rejected one because it was .050 thou. out of concentric. The powder coating on the replacement wheel has a different sheen than the other three, makes me nuts but I guess not enough to fix it, yet. But unlike yourself I didn't start this during the George W. Bush administration........LOL. Thanks for your reply, Brian

my pitt racer with a cute a top . View attachment 882544

POMONAMISSEL, your pit racer looks very cool, do you have more pictures of it? I would like to point out that it is quite unfair of you to post a photo with that "top" in it next to my explanatory picture of a fat old guy on a go-cart........LOL. If she's the "top", does that make you the "bottom"? Thanks for your reply, Brian.

 

[493 Mike]

Brian,
Occasionally someone will spot the different colors but they just laugh. I do have a buddy that really thinks it's wrong, so that is another reason not to change. My enclosed snowmobile trailer has its wheels painted to match my truck also.
Mike

 

[bherman]

Brian,
Occasionally someone will spot the different colors but they just laugh. I do have a buddy that really thinks it's wrong, so that is another reason not to change. My enclosed snowmobile trailer has its wheels painted to match my truck also.
Mike

Mike, only a truly sick individual, or a classic car nut would do something like that! Brian

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

here's the build and more of it . it was a 90 day wonder from start to finish , its all hand built from scrap tubing and a couple radio flyer wagon tubes . my buds and i had to walk everywhere at the races in the pitts . so we all built them just to get somewhere . but mine was different , i'll include my buds build as well . its more wagon styled , and his is ridge just looks like coilovers . mine has t bars front suspension , used turn c body bars cut down .

 

[493 Mike]

Very nice!
Mike

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

this was our street drag 63 sfgc has a calif pump gas motor in it with a stage 2 mw package on it .

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

love that 66 sat , i've only had one 66 sat commando 383 4spd , dark red met with black int buckets with the console . was a fun ride . i was young and these cars were everywhere . i cut it up or down to 2200 lbs w/o a cage , then through the body away and started a littler lighter car to put my built eng/trans/re in .

 

[bherman]

here's the build and more of it . it was a 90 day wonder from start to finish , its all hand built from scrap tubing and a couple radio flyer wagon tubes . my buds and i had to walk everywhere at the races in the pitts . so we all built them just to get somewhere . but mine was different , i'll include my buds build as well . its more wagon styled , and his is ridge just looks like coilovers . mine has t bars front suspension , used turn c body bars cut down . View attachment 882865 View attachment 882866 View attachment 882873 View attachment 882874 View attachment 882875

POMONAMISSEL, your pit racer is very cool, thanks for the additional photos. I really like the small wagon tray used as a grille shell, very creative, Brian.