1967 Coronet 500

[coronet500]

hey, I'm new here looking for information. I have located a 67 Coronet 500 that is in decent shape...I actually haven't seen it in person yet, just pictures. 383 4bbl auto deep red with black vinyl top (torn up and needing replaced), there is some rust in the rear quarters and a spot in the front passenger side of the fender. The front grill has R/T emblems is this for real?

I haven't been involved with Mopars since I had a 64 Polara 500 back about 40 years ago. So help me out here and let me know where the trouble spots are. Floor pans? Window frames? Cowl?

What are these cars worth? How readily available are parts (body, trim, etc). Not looking for a 100 point show car, just a decent driver. Just a point of reference they are asking $1800.

Looking forward to hearing back from you guys. Thanks in advance for your responses.

 

[Reddodger]

Buy it. If it runs an original 4 speed car is hard to find.

 

[coronet500]

doesn't run and it's an auto

 

[moparcrazy]

Real Coronet R/T

Oh Ya there real, just make sure the one your looking at is, & if it is $1800.00 it's a steal, if not rusted to death

 

[Ron 73]

Thats a couple great looking ones there! Posting some pictures would give everyone a better guess at a price for you.. Welcome to the forum also!

 

[coronet500]

Ok, moparcrazy, is there a way to verify whether or not it is an R/T? Some code on the ID tag? Thanks

Here are a few pictures.

 

[coronet500]

Actually, it appears that there is a posting about this car here. http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?27542-1967-Coronet-500-must-go

 

[YY1]

Yup, that car has been for sale on this site for a while.

looks like a good project.

It is NOT an R/T, but appears to be a factory 383-4 car.

The VIN will confirm that.

It should read "WP23H7..."

W- Coronet
P- Premium (500)
23- 2 door hardtop
H- 383-4
7- 1967

 

[coronet500]

YY1, thanks, that is the type of info I needed. Anyone else have anything to help me when I go look at this car?

 

[YY1]

Check the torsion bar crossmember for rust, especailly where it meets the front frame horns.
Also the frame horns themselves, especially behind the shock towers and under the UCA area.

I like this car a lot, and carried on quite the conversation with the person who first posted it.

I don't believe I've ever seen a 500 with the lower body painted black (like gray on a Satellite).
Would be interesting if that's factory.

According to this site, that's quite the low production car.
http://www.glenwood76.com/Coronet_Production_65_76.htm
Too bad the 67's don't break down like the 66's.

This 66/67 charger tag decoder should have about 85-95% of the info for a Coronet.
http://www.chargersourceguide.com/

It's tough to tell from the pics (especially with the black lower body paint), but see if the rust is much worse than it looks on that quarter. There is a patch available and I believe a member here has used one, with good results.

That 67 body molding traps dirt and leaves, and causes rust underneath. I'd see about looking under some of it, especially the rear wheel arch. that area is a prone to rust anyway, and is a nightmare to get bodywork to look correct (unless you use that patch).

Looks like it's also got the beginnings of what I call 66/67 Charger rust syndrome- where it looks like the tops of the fenders and/or doors and quarters are rusting from the inside out. Seems like a lot more chargers have this issue than Coronets. See how bad that is. If it's just the fenders~~....but if it's the quarters

Also look where the top meets the quarters at the C pillar. That can be a rust prone area. A vinyl top is a rust catcher as well, and the two together could be trouble.

I'd love to see the fender tag for this car.

Good luck!

- - - Updated - - -

I see he's already commented on this thread.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?24585-1967-Coronet-Deluxe&p=909758831#post909758831

Scroll down.

 

[kb67mopar]

Right rear quarter looks like its been hit and is bent up a bit right on the back - look at how it doesn't line up with trunk anymore. Also with the quarter rust you will need quarter panel patches, inner wheel houses and both trunk extension panels. The way the front suspension is sitting the torsion bar x-member is fubar and will need replacing. The drivers fender is rusting from the inside out which tells me the fender is probably junk. I would expect the floor pans on both side are rotted out as it is typical.

Expect plenty of time and expense getting metal. Quarter panels only have small patches available and you will need to buy several and graft or look for clean quarters from a donor car which will cost you as much as the car you are looking at. The cross member is about $250 for a sherman piece. Floor pans are a couple hundred for full sides each. Trunk extensions through Sherman are $88 on rock auto. and fenders are only available used.

Other then that it looks like a good start if you are willing to do lots of work.

 

[coronet500]

Thanks guys for the info...I think I will still look at the car, but it sounds like it's going to be more work than I really want to get in to. I don't think that I want to get into that much work at this point with this car. If it were a GTX, or a true R/T, I'd probably be more willing to "jump off the deep end".

 

[YY1]

I think the asking price is probably pretty low.

I don't think we're trying to scare you, but I can see how it might come across that way.

The 66/67 body is actually one of the least rust prone Mopars to own

 

[coronet500]

Like I said, I'm going to look at it.....with an open mind.

So where do you get the replacement sheetmetal/patch panels? Nobody makes replacement fenders? Patch panels there too?

 

[kb67mopar]

Like I said, I'm going to look at it.....with an open mind.

So where do you get the replacement sheetmetal/patch panels? Nobody makes replacement fenders? Patch panels there too?

Certain patch panels are available through amd but more are available through sherman. By far the best place is though RockAuto since pricing is cheaper.

Fenders you are pretty much screwed for new. I did find a site who made fiberglass replacements but have no idea where that was or pricing. You can generally find decent ones for $125-200 a piece.

 

[YY1]

Fenders do turn up, and for some reason 67's turn up more often (for me anyway). I've passed over several, but now that I've decided to replace rather than repair, I can't find a good one to save my life!

I do know where there's a straight 67 fender I can use, but I'll need to fix a quarter sized hole and graft on my 66 headlight buckets.

That quarter patch that kb67 used seems like a godsend to these cars. His came out really nice.
That wheel arch is the second most rust prone area (after the lower quarters), and all those internal and external curves and knife edge straight lines coming together is really difficult to get to look correct with hand made patches and filler.

I'm dying to see inside and under the hood of this car...and the fender tag, as wel as better shots of those problem areas we;ve been discussing.

 

[terzmo]

as said...make sure torsion supports and frame is solid...alot of work...an R/T vin would start with WS23...From the moulding and grill...it's not an r/t

 

[coronet500]

Yea, I know it's not an R/T. The seller told me that the original got damaged, they found that one and put it in.

I did find another 67 500 that is in much better shape. The rear quarters aren't rusted through and according to the seller and shown in the pictures, not much rust in the front fenders, floors or trunk. It's a 383 auto, bucket seats, PS and AC. Resto has been started already and appears that all the parts are there. $2000

- - - Updated - - -

 

[kb67mopar]

Second one sounds like a much better deal.

YY1 I tend to find 66 parts way more often then 67...go figure. I still have a 66 pass fender but its not rust free....ill make a deal i want it gone.

 

[RustyRatRod]

1800 smackers aint the price level where I am worried about numbers matchin this, how many of what that, how many did they make blah blah blah.....bullshit bullshit............at 1800 bucks, you need to be worried about solid frame rails, solid torsion bar mounts, how much sheet metal work the car needs, how much mechanical it needs, what it will take to make it a good car. Cause unless somebody's real STUPID, you ain't gonna get a numbers matchin low production car for that kinda money. So, rather than try to find out pointless BS, you should concern yourself with more important things. JMHO.