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1968 B-Body handling advice please.

SFC is one of the to do for sure upgrades. Will keep them simple. 2"x.090 or so material and just simple angle cuts on the rear and squared off with a rectangle piece to on the front. Not going to sleeve them into the existing rails like I've done on the 65, plus no 2x4 rectangle.
I think "sleeving" is overrated, I am a believer in the largest cross section the installer can accept, which is rather limited if one is not OK with cutting the floor pan. Maybe a thickening plate where the fronts weld in? So, if cutting is not in the cards, I'd prefer at least a .120" wall, as weight in a wagon is not normally a great negative for street use, and the added weight is all well below center of gravity. If you ever get in a minor Tee bone accident, you will be in full agreement especially if you add a couple of ties to the rocker panels. :) A wagon is very venerable in that type of collision.
 
-Larger torsion bars 1.04 to 1.22
-1 1/4” dia front sway bar
-Adjustable rear sway bar
-Bilstein RCD shocks minimum up to Viking double adjustables
-Borganson steering box
- 275 wide front and 275+ tires in rear
-at least 12” factory type “cop” front rotors. Larger diameter rotors will require 16” plus diameter rims

I'd like to add Moog 7103 offset upper control arm bushing to that list.
Installed per the following instruction for added caster alignment.

DO NOT install them per the printed instructions in the kit to get more caster.

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Also take a look at some 15" street drag radials. around 275/50/15 size.

I think they may have a little better sidewalls and grip than BFG's or Coopers.

Like Nitto, Mickey Thompson, others.
 
Reminds me, I worked with Johnny when he was a kid and played in a local band in So Florida.
He was a Rockstar even then.
Pass the bucket Please. :lol:
 
Cutting the floor was not an issue as I had cracks/tears where the seats attached, no backing plates for them, and some other stuff to take care of. Cut the areas out and made my own including the tunnel.
 
SFC is one of the to do for sure upgrades. Will keep them simple. 2"x.090 or so material and just simple angle cuts on the rear and squared off with a rectangle piece to on the front. Not going to sleeve them into the existing rails like I've done on the 65, plus no 2x4 rectangle.
I need some for my Wagon as well.. It will make replacing the floors easier.
 
Also take a look at some 15" street drag radials. around 275/50/15 size.

I think they may have a little better sidewalls and grip than BFG's or Coopers.

Like Nitto, Mickey Thompson, others.


First, Thank you all for your ideas and experience. 2nd, I might start a build thread here sometime. 3rd, are you talking about drag radials for the front of the car as well? That would be awesome if it would work.
 
I did the ford ball joint end links on my sway bar this year on 69 GTX. They felt much better on the first drive. Car handles much closer to my last rr that was a post car and weighed much much less.

I had a 70 challenger with a lot of the typical mods of the late 90s era done to it. Car did handle much better than other mopars I had. Oringal owner of the car kept it until 1999 and it had those mods done. One thing I added was the stronger rear shackles. Could tell that did something for it. Seems those were available from some suspension shop that advertised all over back then. I saw hot hotchkis sells a similar piece.

I used to put edelbrock shocks on everything and those felt really nice. Would love to find another set, but I just got bilsteins and look forward to getting those on for the spring.
 
First, Thank you all for your ideas and experience. 2nd, I might start a build thread here sometime. 3rd, are you talking about drag radials for the front of the car as well? That would be awesome if it would work.

yes drag radials for the front. Some have done that. They are the street drag stuff. Find the 15" drag radial street tire you are looking at, then search web for people running them in front.
 
I did the ford ball joint end links on my sway bar this year on 69 GTX. They felt much better on the first drive. Car handles much closer to my last rr that was a post car and weighed much much less.

One thing I added was the stronger rear shackles. Could tell that did something for it.
Interesting observations. I am assuming no other changes were made at the time, like tires, shocks, urethane bushings, alignment etc ?
 
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