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1968 Charger Flasher Turn Signal Question

6T8 Charger

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My '68 Charger has sat for 25 years without running and I'm trying to get the lights working. The under-dash wiring harness is in decent shape. I've got tail lights, brake lights and dash lights working but my emergency flasher and turn signals don't work. I've got power to both flashers and when I put my test light (that's grounded) into either flasher, the flasher will start to click and the test light will blink on and off. Any idea what's going on with my wiring?
 
did you check the engine side harness for corrosion?
 
Most electrical problems are due to a bad ground; check the bulb sockets and the ground wire(s). The fronts are at the radiator support upper yoke.
 
did you check the engine side harness for corrosion?
The engine harness and the headlight harness at the bulkhead aren't plugged in. I've just got a yellow jumper wire from the bulkhead to the starter relay to start the car and a hot wire going into the bulkhead plug in where the positive battery wire powers up the dash and fuse box.
 
Do you have access to a spare T/S switch? Just plug it in... Brake lights working proves the majority of the wiring is good, the grounds are good... The flashers flash if they are grounded... Power isn't getting from the flashers to the lights... The only part likely to cause that is the T/S switch... Aftermarket T/S switches are garbage... Either find can original that works or spring for an NOS one... Which is why I ask if you happen to have access to one you could plug in before busting out the piggy bank...
 
Most electrical problems are due to a bad ground; check the bulb sockets and the ground wire(s). The fronts are at the radiator support upper yoke.
If I have my gauge pod unhooked and removed should the dash lights with the orange wires light up or do they ground to the body of the gauge pod? If I ground them with a jumper wire, they light up but not if I remove the wire.
 
Do you have access to a spare T/S switch? Just plug it in... Brake lights working proves the majority of the wiring is good, the grounds are good... The flashers flash if they are grounded... Power isn't getting from the flashers to the lights... The only part likely to cause that is the T/S switch... Aftermarket T/S switches are garbage... Either find can original that works or spring for an NOS one... Which is why I ask if you happen to have access to one you could plug in before busting out the piggy bank...
The T/S switch sounds like a prime suspect. I don't have an extra, let me see if I can find an NOS one (that sounds ex$pen$ive). TY
 
yep and we have sellers here charging the same price CRAZY

You own a 70, different part, you can find a switch that works and lives for a 70... Not truly correct, if you want correct you gotta pay too.. But at least theres parts that work without a crazy price... 67-68-69 your screwed...
 
I have one chance. I have a 1968 Plymouth Fury III parts car. I can't remember if the T/S worked when I drove it. I don't even know if it's a crossover part with my Charger, but I'm desperate. I may have to try.
 
My console courtesy lamps have me completely beat. No power when dome light is on, close door jamb plunger switch, dome light/ console courtesy lights go dim. I turn ignition switch to run, or acc the dome light/console courtesy lights act normally when i depress the door jamb switch. Dome light works normally with the bulbs removed from the console courtesy light sockets. I have all grounds touching bare metal. All the wiring is new. Nothing is cut, or spliced, or half *** wired together. I have additional grounds from the dash to A pillar, ground strap from steering column to floor pan( yes the steering column ground wire is in place) i have done resistance checks, and continuity checks with a multi meter, and a DC continuity tester, no anomaly anywhere, btw, no wires are pinched, or compromised in any way. I just may not worry about those lights, and leave them unused. PITA
 
I had the same problem with my four way flashers. Out of desperation I removed the switch from the dash and took it apart. It's just four small tabs on the back that need to carefully bend back. The cardboard piece will then come out. Pay attention to the orientation of everything. Remove the contacts and gently clean them with a fine nail file. Put everything back together and hopefully you'll be back in business. Mine were slightly corroded, just enough to keep the current from going through. Hope this helps.
 
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