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1968 Charger RT - Still Learning

- - - Updated - - -

1968 Dodge Charger Paint

Base Coat: 3 Coats
PPG Epoxy Primer + Primer + Block + Epoxy Primer
PPG Deltron 2000 LL1 Ditzler 13371 + PPG DT-885 (Reducer)

Base Clear: 4 Coats
PPG DCU2021 (4) + PPG DT-885 (Reducer) (2) + PPG DCX-61 (Hardener) (1)

Dash:
DP90LF + DP402LF (after application, waited 5 days)
OEM Suede Lacquer (1) + Acrylic Lacquer Thinner (Slow) (1.5) – Instrument Specialties

Steering Column:
DP90LF + DP402LF (after application, waited 5 days)
OEM Suede Lacquer (1) + Acrylic Lacquer Thinner (Slow) (1.5) – Instrument Specialties

Grille/Core Support:
DP90LF + DP402LF
PPG DCC 9355 (4) + DT-855 (2) + DCX-61 (1)

Front Facing:
PPG DCC 9355 (4) + DT-855 (2) + DCX-61 (1)

Inner Door:
PPG Epoxy Primer
PPG Deltron 9000 (1) + DT-885 (1)
PPG DCU2021 (4) + PPG DT-885 (2) + PPG DCX-61 (1)

Tail Panel:
DP90LF + DP402LF (after application, waited 5 days)
PPG Duracryl Acrylic Lacquer Organosol (1) + Acrylic Lacquer Thinner (Slow) (1.5) – Roger Gibson

Engine:
Delstar DAR Acrylic Enamel (1) + Acrylic Enamel Reducer (1) – Roger Gibson

Front and Rear Wheel Wells: Undercoating (Before applying undercoating – fuel tank, brake and fuel lines and rear shocks will be installed) – Resto Ricks

Other parts painted base (LL1) and clear coat: Hood Hinges, Hood Latch, Battery Tray and Support Brackets, Trunk Latch and Striker.
 
The Charger is going to hot looking in that unique color. Personally I would like some contrasting colors on the engine itself. The engine bay looks hot to. Sweet car!
 
LL1- cool colour! my 68 charger is a factory LL1 car with white interior however previous owner painted it black, dont see many LL1's out there! nice car! IMG_00001781.jpg
 
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1968 Charger R/T - Engine Paint

Carburetor Spring return bracket
Crankshaft vibration damper and bolt
Crankshaft Balancer
Cylinder Heads
Engine Block Freeze Plugs
Exhaust Manifolds and Heat Riser Valve
Dip Stick Handle
Flex Plates – mounted to the crankshaft
Fly Wheel
Fuel Pump
Ground Strap at back of engine
Heat Shields
Heater and By-pass Hose Nipples
Intake Manifold and Bolts
Intake Manifold Fittings, Gaskets andSeals
Intake Manifold Vacuum nipple hole istapped off with masking tape
Negative Battery Cable – tape end
Oil Fill Cap
Oil Pan and Plug
Oil Pump
PVC
PVC Grommet
Spark Plugs (Installed and Masked offwith tape)
Spark Plug Wire Holders (plastic) –purchase the kit
Spark Plug Heat Shields (one on theright side and one on the left side)
Throttle (bracket, but not the clamp andnut) and Linkage Brackets
Timing Chain and Gear Set Covers
Torque Converters – mounted to thecrankshaft
Valley Pan and Noise Insulation Package
Valve Covers – should have studs on thefour corners
Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve Cover Wire Holders
Valve Cover Grommet
Water Pump, Water Pump Housing andThermostat Housing – end is masked off with tape
 
P1010005.jpg
Completed the rear and front. Next on the list is the applying the undercoating in the wheel wells.
 

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Drivers Side - Front Undercoating.jpgDrivers Side Rear - Undercoating.jpgPasssenger Side - Front Undercoating.jpgPassenger Side - Rear Undercoating.jpg
Undercoating: Prep the wheel wells by first installing the front and rear fender splash guards. After installation, I installed the rear fender splash guard gaskets and front fender gaskets. Next, I installed the front metal plates. Both plates are installed on the outside of the inner fender. Finally, I installed the rubber plates.
The larger rubber plate - I installed on the drivers side - on the outside of the inner fender.
The smaller rubber plate - I installed on the passenger side - on the inside of the inner fender.

I purchased the rubber plates and clips from Don Wolfie. It was pretty cool installing a 48 year old set of rubber plates.
Next on the agenda is installing the rear suspension.
 
Taking shape nicely....on the homeward stretch now. :thumbsup:
 
I ran into a major problem with the front disc brake calipers. I did not realize that the calipers had a cover bracket. To solve the problem I purchased (4) 9/16-12 x 3.25 bolts and took them to a machine shop (Suspension #2) to tap (5/16). After tapping the bolt I put on the bracket and secured it with the 5/16 x .50 bolt. I also ran into a problem with the knuckle and lower ball joint. I am not sure why but the bolt was put on backwards when I purchased the car. To solve the problem I purchase (4) 5/8-18 x 2.5 inch bolts, cut new threads through the bolt shoulder and then drill a 1/8 size hole in the end for the cotter pin. Finally after dye and drill, blasting, and bluing the bolt fit perfectly (Suspension #1). Still Learning

Suspension #1.JPG Suspension #2.JPG Suspension #3.JPG Suspension #4.JPG
 
Two steps forward - one step back. Made some progress this week. We installed the radiator, shroud, some fire wall parts, battery box, and vacuum canister. I did make a major mistake that only a junior member would make. I was going through the parts box today and came across a package called torsion bar boot seals. After a few choice four letter words, I came to the realization that I will be taking a step back next week. Still Learning

Engine June 2016v1.JPG Engine June 2016v2.JPG
 
After installing the torsion bar boot seals, we installed the exhaust, rear tail lights and most of the engine. Next on the list is finishing up the engine, steering column and dash. Still Learning

8 Sep 16.JPG 8 Sep 16v1.JPG 8 Sep 16vv4.JPG
 
Yes it is looking great. You'll have to pull those rear bumper brackets off the car & attach them to the bumper first. And don't forget the foam gaskets that slide on top of the bumper bracket attaching bolts.
 
Beautiful-- only problem so far was torsion boots??!!!! Ur way better than me..
 
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