1968 GTX project

[1968_GTX]

Propwash actually ran across your youtube video while trying to find more information on torsion bar removal. Very inspirational stuff. Much appreciated.

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Ok guys need a little help. I am trying to remove the torsion bars from the car. You can see in the photo that the nut is backed off to the point that it is spinning on both sides of the k member. I have the clip from the back of the torsion bar also removed. I do not have a torsion bar tool and that might be the answer to my questions. I have tried to move the torsion bar back using a dead blow lightly with no success. What am I missing here?



You can see the missing dirt here where I used the rubber mallet. I might need to just man up and knock the crap out of it but didnt want to tear anything up.

 

[69 GTX]

Those strecher/shrinkers work great for that. But you may have to heat the metal red hot to remove some temper if it doesn't want to form.

 

[Propwash]

Thanks '68 GTX! As far as getting those puppies out, you want to make sure they are fully unloaded. That would include the obvious ones...A) Loosen up the torsion bar adjusting bolts all the way out (very bottom side of the lower control arms) B) Getting vehicle front end completely off the ground. Last would be like you've already accomplished, removing the retaining clips. Next, if the upper control arm and lower arm are still attached to the spindle/drum, you want to remove the upper control arm bumpers. Take a look at your upper control arm...the bumper is about 1" DIA, and is shaped like a bullet. The upper control arm rests on top of it when the car is up in the air. Seen guys remove the torsion bars by different means, but the best way IMO is to buy the tool. Using a vise grip can damage the bars surface.. Severely beating on it can do the same.
Here's a little article that may also help you out:

http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/

If you end up going to buy the tool, there are plenty of places that sell them across the net. Just google search "Torsion bar removal tool mopar", and you'll have a ton of options.

 

[daytona kid]

Those strecher/shrinkers work great for that. But you may have to heat the metal red hot to remove some temper if it doesn't want to form.

Yep, the strecher/shrinkers are a must on the rear window redo, imo. Wish I would have thought of heating while doing mine, that metal was tuff to form. I have lots of pics of my window redo on my thread "$500 charger", different car but same procedures.
That is a great car/project you've got there 68-GTX. Don't rush, do your reseach,. All the info you need is on this site.
You can unbolt the K frame and the bars may come out the front of the trans x member easier than the back. Then you can work them out of the lower arms. That's what I did and lots of WD-40 on everything. After you bead blast everything the bars will go in and out easy either way.

 

[wannadrag]

A little more inspiration for you.Cool project and be prepared for a lot of one year only parts.Started as a rusty pile,fenders,1/4s,doors,trunk,floors,trunk pan,frame rail and a lot of hrs of eatin dirt and weld smoke.

 

[GetX'd]

Take your time and do it right. I'm 4 years into mine and it was in a lot better shape than the one you have. Mine is a 68 GTX also. I bought all the metal I needed from AMD and it was good stuff. The rot spots I can see from your pics are common ones for this car. I had some of the same ones and the car was stored inside for many years. Good luck on your restore and as mentioned you'll need a lot of patience but in the end it'll be worth it. The 68 GTX is a gem of a car and not that many left around. Enjoy!

 

[Nsane]

Did you get a 68 GTX grille with it? it looks to have a roadrunner grille currently. I really like the look of the GTX or sport sat grille over the roadrunner. Looks to be a fun project good luck and keep the updates coming.

 

[1968_GTX]

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You can unbolt the K frame and the bars may come out the front of the trans x member easier than the back. Then you can work them out of the lower arms. That's what I did and lots of WD-40 on everything. After you bead blast everything the bars will go in and out easy either way.

This is what ended up working for me. I think the tool would have worked as well but I will be out of town next weekend and didn't want to wait for the tool to arrive. So I removed all four bolts from the k member and rocked it lightly until the torsion bars moved back. Once they dropped back I pulled the k member forward and both torsion bars came free fairly easily. I finished tearing down my first front end after that was accomplished. Pics coming soon I really had way too much fun getting this torn down. I am about to order the rebuild kit for the front end any you guys would recommend? I was thinking the front end kit from PST.

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[daytona kid]

If your budget allows you may want to go with the PST kit or similar, but I went to my local parts store/s and got everything as needed. Quality was good and price was great. Most stuff was Moog I think. Be sure to lube everything up as you tear down, you can ruin some stuff if not, the lube will help you save and reuse a lot of stuff. Not trying to be a critic but that torsion adjuster in the 3rd pic looks very dry. I have seen those fail., and they could fail when your under the car, which would let it fall on you, something I never thought of till I saw it..

 

[GearAddict]

I used the PST kit which was fine, I have no real complaints with it, but if you're willing to spend a little more, you can go all Moog, which seem to be the best quality stock replacements.

Many great B-body suspension rebuilds recently for reference in the members project threads...

check out these guys projects (I'm sure I will leave out a ton of others, sorry, these just come to mind quickly)

MT_Mopar
Hsorman

Propwash (Hall of Famer)

or mine if you want to laugh at my ineptitude.