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1969 Charger R/T resurrection

I guess the point I was trying to get across with AMD 747 is from time to time we get keyboard sheetmetal guys on here claiming AMD metal is slap it in place and weld on, when that's truly not the case. For instance this project as well as my RR project require(d) all sorts of modification to include metal shaping, relief cuts, triming, filing, adding metal. Like mentioned before, compared to metal from Sherman or Goodmark, odds are the AMD will have a better fit, but that's not to say none of their panels won't work well either. I just put in a fresh set of Sherman floor pans for a '66 Fairlane and they fit great. All new panels will undoubtedly require work, folks should just know AMD is no different. The biggest gripe I have against it is people come out from those bigger than life AMD recommendations expecting something they're not going to get. :)
 
747mopar said:
On the deck filler panel fit, I had the same issue on my charger with the AMD panel. I re-bent the lip to move it over,
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How exactly did you you rebend the flange to minimize distortion? I've been talking to a rep at AMD who is replacing almost all the metal on a 69 Charger for a Mopar Muscle magazine project. He used some kind of wide dull chisel to drive the edge over, but the kid helping me is reluctant to do this because of making a mess that would have to be covered with Duraglass. Were you able to use wide pliers to straighten and rebend? There is a slight curve to the panel that would seem to make that method difficult also.

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Propwash said:
I guess the point I was trying to get across with AMD 747 is from time to time we get keyboard sheetmetal guys on here claiming AMD metal is slap it in place and weld on, when that's truly not the case. For instance this project as well as my RR project require(d) all sorts of modification to include metal shaping, relief cuts, triming, filing, adding metal. Like mentioned before, compared to metal from Sherman or Goodmark, odds are the AMD will have a better fit, but that's not to say none of their panels won't work well either. I just put in a fresh set of Sherman floor pans for a '66 Fairlane and they fit great. All new panels will undoubtedly require work, folks should just know AMD is no different. The biggest gripe I have against it is people come out from those bigger than life AMD recommendations expecting something they're not going to get. :)
Click to expand...

You are exactly right Prop. What gets me is that AMD is well aware of these fitment issues on several of the Charger parts. They try to get them rectified, but the Asians will not admit to making an inferior product. Their culture does not allow failure. So you can't change something that there isn't a problem with. These are the exact words from an AMD rep. I have been talking to, who by the way has been very helpful to me. The problem isn't AMD in Georgia but in the overseas manufacturing. I recommended it would be a great idea to move the plant to the USA and let our people make the parts for our muscle cars. Just got a chuckle out of that.
 
Getting a few of the smaller things taken care of even though I won't need them for some time. Restored wiper motor from Kim @ Passion4mopars who always does a great job. Restored steering whee PC150040.JPGPC150039.JPGl and also recieved complete wiring harness' from Y.O.
 
Both those will look great when you get them on your car when the time comes.
 
What AMD described to you is basically what I did, I kept working the bend over to close the gap with a hammer and a flat dull peace of metal following it up with some hammer and dolly work to the top. It actually worked out well and required very little filler to smooth out. Sorry, to hear that I'm supposedly misrepresenting AMD but I have nothing to gain from it and I never said everything they make is perfect. I bragged there full quarters up because they fit that good "PERIOD" at least on my car. I would gladly invite anybody to come see for themselves. I quess for me if I install that much new sheatmetal with very little experience and all I have to do is fix a 1/8 gap in one panel then I'm pretty happy. Love the post great work
 
PC160039.JPG
Does anyone have a power steering car with the fluid cooler? I haven't been able to find a picture showing how it is supposed to mount. This is how it would set using the 4th. unused hole on the pump. Does this look right?
 
Got my sector and a coupler kit back from Steer & Gear. Had to strip off their crappy paint job and redo. I see their new coupling lits come with the orange seal. Good thing there was just a thread onwhere to find the black ones.
Brand new HD springs to hold up my Dana 60.
Brake and clutch assembly that I blasted and repainted a couple of months ago.PC160039.JPGPC160040.JPGPC160041.JPG
 
looking good someone is busy keep posting your updates :headbang:
 
69-71_pwr_st_pump_3[1].jpg

Disreguard the question about the cooler. Finally found a picture - I was way off.
 
hunt2elk said:
Glad to see you are back Ron. Still got the "bell from hell".
Made a little progress last night. I met this 28 year old kid last summer who is a wiz with metal work. He is going to help me where I don't feel comfortable. It is amazing to me how easy he makes fabrication look. Started on the upper rear window area. He has been telling me for the past 2 months that we should use as much original metal as possible because of poor fitment on all replacement parts. I thought he was crazy until seeing the issues we will have to repair on new AMD stuff.

Thanks bud! lol, Ive learned a lot but do remember and figured this could be the project you were waiting for..
Click to expand...
 
PC210062.JPGPC260067.JPGPC270069.JPGPC200053.JPGLearned about steering sectors over the X-Mas break. Blasted, painted, and put back together. I think it turned out pretty well for a HVAC guy.
 
PC160046.JPGPC240066.JPGPC280077.JPGPC280078.JPGPC280079.JPGPC280081.JPGPC280082.JPGPC280084.JPGWe have made some progress on the rear window area. On the deck filler panel we ended up hammer and dollying the left flange flat and then rebending it 5/16" farther out in my sheetmetal brake, and welding in the corners to get it looking like it should. This ended up turning out very nice. Another issue with the piece is that it is shorter than the original so we had to move the piece down towards the deck lid about 5/16" to prevent a huge gap. The rear glass will still rest in the bigger opening and the trim will cover so everything should be ok. You could lay the new piece inside an original - that is how much smaller it is. Definately room for improvement on AMD's part. The lower plenum fit very nice.

Question for you guys who have done this before. In areas like the upper window opening where we welded in a new inside corner, what would be the best to protect the weld on the upper backside? I can't get in there to apply Rust Bullet. Eastwood makes some internal frame coating that comes with a long spray hose. I have used this before and it seems to work good. Would that be ok, or should I use something else?
 
Damn nice start man, I will be watching this thread closely as I will be going thru the same process :/
 
:hatwave: well I see you have been busy again sure is looking very good ,thanks man :headbang:
 
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