1969 Dodge Charger Rear End Total Rebuild Expolosion Diagram?

[Kardos]

Hi All, I have been a member of this website for a while and I have never posted. It looks like this is the best area to post a request about rebuilding a rust and auto accident car crash rear end on a 1969 Dodge Charger. I recently bought a bunch of rear end metal parts from Classic Industries. Their website was pretty good and I ordered a lot of parts, however I have never done this before and I could not find any "Explosion Diagram" on the auto-body websites. From looking at the car and seeing pictures on the internet of B-Body Frames only, I have an idea, however I was wondering if anyone has a diagram or resource for this. I have uploaded some photos I have of the car and data I have found. I have had the car pulled out on a rack since the accident and I am not ready to pick a body shop to help fix it.

 

[tmaleck]

I would see about getting the frame pulled first. You can't really just cut out the bent part and put in new without a frame jig, even then you want to make sure the car isn't twisted or bent beyond the obvious.

 

[Kardos]

Thanks Tmaleck, I did have the frame pulled and I was thinking of going that route, but though it might just be best to put all new metal in since there is a lot of rust and bondo over the years. My dad bought the car brand new and I am trying to think long term and not have to deal with it again and I do not ever want to sell it either. I appreciate your feedback.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Is the damage just on the drivers side,how are the drivers door gaps between door n quarter,it looks like from pic that the impact stopped at the roof n quarter seam,did it pop the rear window out,it looks like at one time someone replaced the trunk floor with a two piece unit.get it up on a jig n level it up at rockers if you can n start from there,start doing your measurements n go from there.

 

[MoparLeo]

Reality check here. Have you done this type of work before with success ? This not a one time deal. If you want to know that is was done correctly AND get a warranty on the end result, find a good collision repair shop. Some things you do yourself and sometimes it makes more sense to pay a pro who has the proper tools and experience. Can't learn experience from a book or picture. Practice on another car that you can mess up on and nothing lost. Just me of course.

 

[Kardos]

Reality check here. Have you done this type of work before with success ? This not a one time deal. If you want to know that is was done correctly AND get a warranty on the end result, find a good collision repair shop. Some things you do yourself and sometimes it makes more sense to pay a pro who has the proper tools and experience. Can't learn experience from a book or picture. Practice on another car that you can mess up on and nothing lost. Just me of course.

Hi MoparLeo, thanks for your feedback. Yes, I am not going to do the work, I will have a shop do it. I was just asking since some people say work with the original metal might be better with bondo and welding metal patches back in after banging out the metal, but I think in this case it is best to use the factory replacement metal. It is OER I believe and it says it is authorized by Mopar, but made in Taiwan. I guess things like this are not made in the USA anymore. It sounds like you do not have any "explosion diagram" of the back of the car, but maybe that does not exist.

 

[Kardos]

Is the damage just on the drivers side,how are the drivers door gaps between door n quarter,it looks like from pic that the impact stopped at the roof n quarter seam,did it pop the rear window out,it looks like at one time someone replaced the trunk floor with a two piece unit.get it up on a jig n level it up at rockers if you can n start from there,start doing your measurements n go from there.

Hi ChargerSteven, I think you are out here in El Cajon, Ca near me. A FJ Landcrusier hit a Mazda Miata while were stopped at a light and the Mazda went straight in to my car and under the bumper since it was so low. The Mazda lady was all bloody and had to be cut out of her car. I did have the trunk welded in from Year-one parts years ago in Tijuana when it was easier to just drive across the border. I was at a body shop today and that is what the guy said to start from the door gaps. I did buy a right and left quarter panel. The back window might have been out or it might have cracked in the accident. I was coming back from the Big 3 Auto Swap at Qualcomm Stadium and I had my trunk lid up because I had parts in the trunk from the show and that is why the trunk lid did not get damaged. Here are the accident pictures.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Oh im a long way from Cali,im in Ontario Canada,you are certainly going in the rite direction as having a shop do it if not experinced in doing this major task.The rear quarter window looks like it still fits nice from pic so i dont think not much will be out of line from the bent rail.It would take a real good impact from rear to move the rails ahead n if that was the case the car would start to buckle downward as the next weakest point is along the rockers.Good luck with your venture.

 

[davek]

And what was the out come?