1969 Road Runner (N/A to F/I) "Big Iron"

[Sweet5ltr]

1969 Road Runner "Big Iron"
Father owned this car since 1971, originally an RM23 car.
Brother cracked a piston in 99/00' street racing, and it was parked until 2013.
We restored the car in around a years time after I left active duty in the Army, working on it 3-8 hours each day.
Spent around $20,000 the first year on parts alone. I have around $28,000-$30,000 into it now.
Wanted something different and more reliable power than any 'street-able' stroked RB could make N/A, so I went F/I.


(1st picture)
440 10:1
Victor SP
Proform/Holley 750
.590 MP Camshaft
4-Speed, Hurst 'pistol grip' tall shifter, and Centerforce Clutch
8 3/4 w/ Richmond 4.10's and locker
MP SS Springs, 90/10s front, and C-Body rear shocks
SSBC front and Baer rear brakes
28x4r15 front M/T sportsmans and 30x12r15 rear M/T DR's. 15x4 front, 15x8 rear Jegs Draglite replica's.

(2nd Picture)
440 10:1
Victor SP
CSU 750 BT Carb
BW S475 T6 Turbo
A2W intercooler
Snow Performance Stage II Meth Injection kit
.528 MP Camshaft
727 w/ TSI 3400 converter, Art Carr shifter, and TA RM Valve Body
8 3/4 w/ 2.93 C-Body gears and locker
Hotchkis suspension and MP SS springs
Dr. Diff 13" Brembo front and 11.75" Baer rear disc brakes
27x10r18 front Nitto 555r2's and 28.5x11.6r18 Nitto NT05's. 18x9 front, 18x10 Hellcat Replicas.

 

[super-bee_ski]

WOW!
Impressive!
Looks good.

Just wishing you posted an engine pic too!

 

[HYRDGOON]

Great to see you starting a thread on your car in here 5ltr

Would definitely like to see some underhood pics as well as the turbo's mounting and location.

 

[NJRR]

nice ride !!!

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I have an entire initial build thread i'll have to dig up on the original build. It's probably one of the few b-bodies on the planet with a turbo. There are a few examples found on theturboforums.com, with multitudes of project cars that never get finished. It's easy to get over your head on a build like this, it's not like bolting on a proven kit that nearly any other brand owner can purchase off the shelf. Some people spend so much time attempting to impress other people with part selection and perfectionist build quality, they find little to impress themselves with in the end. I don't want to be sweating bullets when dust or a few droplets of water touches the clear coat. I'm a Roadkill kind of guy, not a concours d'elegance fan on American classics.

Another aspect of these builds, you'll run into two types of individuals when you start (if anyone reading this ever does). One type will tell you to spend well over $20,000 on the drivetrain, MPFI, custom solid roller camshaft, heavily ported aluminum heads, aftermarket block; the best of the best. The second type, will inform you that 'power level X' can be achieved with near stock and unmodified parts. Type A) can make 800HP on 8PSI, type B) can make 800HP on 12PSI. Over achieving for the same result. Another case, type A) believes you need 1,000+HP to have fun, you'll spend 75% of your time in the garage swapping out custom 'one-off' parts and constantly fixing one thing or another. Type B) will make enough horsepower to over power any street tire and be relatively easy on most components, you'll spend your time driving and less time wrenching.

Some people can argue themselves to death on how carbs don't work, you need the best EFI on the market, and builder x-y-z says x-y-z cam profile is the 'greatest'. At the end of the day, stock 5.3's on boost can make well over 600rwhp (well over 750HP) and get 20mpg. If we were smart, we would all do LS swaps as it's so easy, but these Mopars are special for a reason. Over complexity for identical power with a small decrease in boost PSI is stupidity (for a street car), keeping it simple is a way more people can enjoy forced induction on these classic engines.

All in all, these cars are meant for us to have fun. They won't be around forever, just like us. Within the next few decades, we will see a major transition to electric cars for sure. Let's burn all the premium, high-octane fuel we can in the meantime..

 

[Car Nut]

WOW!
Impressive!
Looks good.

Just wishing you posted an engine pic too!

x3

 

[Tzclark]

How many pounds are you pushing at 10:1? Since I am build the a twin turbo b body, I'd like you see your mounting.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

How many pounds are you pushing at 10:1? Since I am build the a twin turbo b body, I'd like you see your mounting.

#8 on 93 and #12 on better fuel. T3/T4 (or hybrid) Twins are nice for packaging, other than that, 400+ cubes will easily spin up a T6 (LSx guys run them every day). Twins double the potential failure points with no additional increase in power or decreased spool time (over a properly sized T6), so that wasn't an option for me. An s480 w/ 1.32 AR will easily support 750-800 RWHP on lower boost levels on a healthy RB/LD, not sure of your specific goals, but there are very few factory engineered Chrysler parts that will last at that level.

The car doesn't stay with me, so no other pictures at this time as it can't fit in my garage. The turbo is mounted underneath the front of the trunk, right around the spare tire holder area. We placed a large 1/4" stainless steel plate on the trunk floor, and bolted it through with another plate underneath that the T6 flange is welded to. Mounting a T6 under the hood with a big block just wasn't going to happen on an actual street car. On a drag car, cut out the inner fenders and dump the 5" down-pipe through the outer fender. A small block is a much better candidate for a turbo build, but just doesn't have that 'wow' factor when you lift off the hood.